Pla Pwy (Sick Fish)
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Jonas Wallin, Josh Lyons, Zac Holtzman |
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||511|
|Submitted By: ||J.Lyons on Nov 4, 2012|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Jonas 'Sweden' Wallin on the first ascent.
Sick Fish shares the same start as Creatures From The Black Lagoon and Twisting By The Pool. Instead of climbing the diagonal crack follow the line of titanium bolts straight up the face. Climb over a small roof to a low angle face. The route meets up with Mud Shark after the fifth bolt. Finish on the top bit of Mud Shark.
This is on the Oceanic Wall between Mud Shark and Creatures From The Black Lagoon. Rappel or lower off from the anchors on Mud Shark. The easiest way to find the route is locate the line of titanium glue-in bolts. We used Hilti RE-500 glue which has a pink or red color to it.
Ten bolts. Five titanium glue-in bolts on Sick Fish and five expansion bolts after meeting up with the top part of Mud Shark. Three bolt anchor.
|Comments on Pla Pwy (Sick Fish)
Nov 5, 2012
I thought I would mention a few things about this route in case folks are a little curious about the bolts. Jonas and myself are apart of the re-bolting initiative in Southern Thailand's climbing mecca Railay Bay (or Tonsai Beach) called the Thaitanium Project. Because of the unique combination of the tropical environment and Karst Limestone in Thailand, stainless steel bolts are corroding at an alarming rate. Sometimes you can even break bolts with body weight alone in under a year. Our solution is the titanium bolt and the Thaitanium Project's mission is to re-bolt all of Railay Bay with these titanium bolts.
We used the titanium glue-in bolts with Hilti RE-500 glue which is the same method that we use in Thailand not because Boulder Canyon is having corrosion problems, but because if you are going to rap bolt, glue-ins are always the best option. I had a few left over Ti bolts for last year and the glue gun for the RE-500. I thought since there is an ocean/water type theme that these bolts would be appropriate. Sick Fish was the original name I had for the route, but since we put in the Ti bolts, we thought it would be cool to name it the Thai translation which we do a lot in Thailand.
If you would like to learn more about the Thaitanium Project, please visit our website at www.thaitaniumproject.com
I hope you enjoy clipping these little gems!
Nov 23, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
Nice work, boys! I am really psyched to go try this one!