|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA:||Jonas Wallin, Josh Lyons, Zac Holtzman|
|Submitted By:||J.Lyons on Nov 4, 2012|
|Comments on Pla Pwy (Sick Fish)||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Nov 5, 2012
I thought I would mention a few things about this route in case folks are a little curious about the bolts. Jonas and myself are apart of the re-bolting initiative in Southern Thailand's climbing mecca Railay Bay (or Tonsai Beach) called the Thaitanium Project. Because of the unique combination of the tropical environment and Karst Limestone in Thailand, stainless steel bolts are corroding at an alarming rate. Sometimes you can even break bolts with body weight alone in under a year. Our solution is the titanium bolt and the Thaitanium Project's mission is to re-bolt all of Railay Bay with these titanium bolts.
We used the titanium glue-in bolts with Hilti RE-500 glue which is the same method that we use in Thailand not because Boulder Canyon is having corrosion problems, but because if you are going to rap bolt, glue-ins are always the best option. I had a few left over Ti bolts for last year and the glue gun for the RE-500. I thought since there is an ocean/water type theme that these bolts would be appropriate. Sick Fish was the original name I had for the route, but since we put in the Ti bolts, we thought it would be cool to name it the Thai translation which we do a lot in Thailand.
If you would like to learn more about the Thaitanium Project, please visit our website at thaitaniumproject.com
I hope you enjoy clipping these little gems!
Nov 23, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
|Nice work, boys! I am really psyched to go try this one!|
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2014
|Bummer to see this go in. Oceanic Wall is one of the best walls in all of Upper Dream if not all of Boulder Canyon. Sad to see a bunch of new bolts that seem to be a major squeeze job between all the other classic routes. There are also 4 new bolts that popped up recently just to the right of Challenges of Leisure which seem to link into some of the other routes. It doesn't appear that the route was even cleaned, and it looks like its covered in lichen. Please people, I'm not one to bitch, but please don't add any more bolts to this wall to prevent it from being grid bolted. All the original lines are great as is and using various anchors along the top of the wall, you can TR pretty much anything and create new lines. I love a new route but not when it takes away from the existing lines that are awesome as independent lines.|