Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Witch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airy Interlude T 
Ankles Away T 
Brute Force T 
Entity, The T 
Gorilla Warfare T 
Green Tide T 
Igor Unchained T 
Innersanctum T 
Pegleg T 
Phosphorescent Flow T 
Pit & The Pendulum, The T 
Pizzazz T 
Pulp Friction T 
Shazam  T 
Spook Book T 
Terrorvision T 
Wicked West of the Witch T 
Witch Doctor T 

Pizzazz 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Herb and Eve Laeger, 7-78
Page Views: 432
Submitted By: john durr on Aug 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is the attractive splitter crack on the prow left of Pegleg / Ankles Away. It starts in a chimney with stemming, commit to a couple face moves with good protection to land at the base of the main crack. The crack starts as a lower angled seam with poor protection then turns to excellent fingers and hands. Belay on a pillar (2-2.5" cams) or continue left back to the chimney and belay from there.

Location 

Located on the left side of the West Face of the Witch, left of Pegleg and Ankles Away. Scramble up to the chimney and a little way back in to start. Descend the standard Witch walk off north.

Protection 

Small aliens protect the crux very well, some tiny stoppers (RP's) until the crack gets fat then cams to 2".


Comments on Pizzazz Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 8, 2008

The Moser, Vernon, Paul guidebook reads, "Poor protection for the move leaving the chimney to get to the crack."
By Murf
Aug 8, 2009

The guidebook is once again wrong, John has good beta in his description.
By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Jul 23, 2014

Double ropes allow the leader to place good gear on the back side of the chimney giving excellent protection for the move from the chimney onto the face into the crack.

I think this is a great short climb, but not for everyone.