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Piz Cengalo

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Forget the Bolts T 

Piz Cengalo 


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Location: 40.14165, -105.48224 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 529
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ross on Sep 23, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Forget the Bolts, this formation is located east o...

Description 

This is an entry to help with keeping things clearer.

This crag is just a couple tenths of a mile to the east of Piz Badille on CO 72.

It has at least one route.


Getting There 

This is just a couple tenths of a mile to the east of Piz Badille on CO 72. From the pulloff, cross the wooden bridge and go up the talus slope to base of low angle, gray rock.

From a big pullout about a quarter or half mile downstream from Piz Badille, cross an old bridge that is posted, or cross the creek upstream. Go straight up the talus slope, passing a 3rd-class slab, to the crag. I first climbed on this PC in 1979 or '80.


Climbing Season


1 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Piz Cengalo
The beginning of P2, my fixed RP is on the right.

Forget the Bolts 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  CO : Lyons : ... : Piz Cengalo
From the pulloff, cross the wooden bridge and go up the talus slope to base of low angle, gray rock. Do an approach pitch to the center of formation below the overhang.P1. Climb up and around the overhang on left side to corner, continue up this to a second corner, then traverse 30' right, just past crack with guano. Set the belay at an inset.P2. Climb up right side of the inset (fixed RP) at its top, stem left and go up a series of small ledges. At second ledge, place gray Alien in a horizontal...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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Comments on Piz Cengalo Add Comment
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By George Bracksieck
Sep 24, 2012

This rock is east of Piz Badille and higher. We could call it Piz Cengalo, to continue a theme of vague resemblances to famous peaks in the Alps of Bregaglia. People perusing MP's list of rocks in the St Vrain would find it next to PB, which would be efficient.

From a big pullout about a quarter or half mile downstream from Piz Badile, cross an old bridge, which is posted, or cross the creek upstream. Go straight up the talus slope, passing a 3rd-class slab, to the crag. I first climbed on this PC in 1979 or '80.

BTW, on June 15, 1979, I led Steve Sarns up the obvious west-facing chimney/crack on another rock, which is not much farther downstream and not much above the stream (5.7?). The lower part of the chimney overhangs.