Fun climbing up a narrowing ridge on beautiful alpine granite. Although the easier pitches are less well equipped with bolts, there are enough to lead the way and from memory, all the crux moves are well bolted. However, you will want to supplement the easier pitches with a bit of gear.
Can be reached in under an hour from the Albigna Hut by walking up east from the hut and around Piz dal Pal. Then head north up towards the base of the south ridge across a bouldery slope. Scramble up a small corner to where a block lies jammed in the couloir to the right of the buttress. Two bolts at the base of the buttress give away the start of the route.
To descend, scramble down E-ridge 30m to 15m abseil being sure to stay on the right side of the ridge ( do not use the chain on the south side!). Descend into the col picking up a cairn that leads you around the north side of tower. A steep 10m descent leads to another 25m abseil point. Descend the couloir (southwards)to pick up another abseil point where another scramble will lead you to the path taking you back to Albigna Hut.
Nearly all belays are equipped with double bolt anchors. The crux pitches are equipped with bolts but carry an alpine rack for the easier pitches as a few dodgy pegs were encountered in places.
10 extendable runners.
Cam sizes 1-2.5
1 50m rope.