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Pixie 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 330', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 573
Submitted By: elvador on Oct 1, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: How to make it to the bottom of the route

Description 

A nice route ascending "Les Grandes Dalles". 2 pitches. First pitch is mostly bolt protected and is more slab climbing. Pitch 2 is a mix of face climbing, dihedrals, slab and with a small point of aid.

Pitch 1 zig-zags alot. Climb an obvious 10 feet crack to reach a ledge. Get up on the slab a little to the right. Once on the slabs, locate far apart bolts to reach the "roofs". Roof are really well protected with bolts. Make it pass the roofs to a chain anchor.

Pitch 2 starts on the left of the chain anchors. CLimb a right facing corner to reach a nice wall with a good crack. Make your way up to the dead tree. (Point of aid... sling or steps needs) Climb the huge flake to reach the summit

Location 

This route is hard to find if you dont know the site. Once you'Ve reach the "planetarium, hike up towards the right on the path leading to the top of the "pierrier". Going up this path, you will notice ramps to access the wall on the left. Take the second ramp (a fixed rope is there to help you not kill yourself)

Walk on the ramp until you see a nice 10 foot hand crack... thats the start!

Protection 

A normal modern rack with max a #2.


Photos of Pixie Slideshow Add Photo
B. Côté on the 2nd ascent of Pixie in 1979
B. Côté on the 2nd ascent of Pixie in 1979

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