|Slab City (Right)
The climb starts with a couple of swift pulls on small edges. Getting past the start may prove to be the crux for some.
After 3 bolts an overlap is reached. For many this will prove to be the crux. To succeed you must commit to a steep lieback, but the holds are good, and after a few moves big flat holds offer comfort.
The climbing above is not as difficult as what lies below, but it is fun with a mixture of reachy balance moves and slab climbing.
Scramble up loose rocks and dirt and start 20' left of Utopia.
9 bolts, 2 open shuts anchor
|By C Miller|
Jan 22, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
A crimpy start with marginal feet is the technical crux, but the full-bore lieback slightly higher is the mental crux, as well as being the most physical part of the route. Once past the lieback the moves are varied and fun all the way to the anchors.
|By Colin Parker|
From: Idyllwild, CA
Nov 29, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
This route is probably my favorite in Slab City. It starts crimpy, moves into a powerful roof, and then finishes on enjoyable, balancy slab up top. It's a nice long route and varied. I climbed it alongside Shattered Dreams, Goody Two Shoes and some 10d just left of Synchronicity [Gulp Swallow perhaps, but wasn't trad and didn't match the description in the book?]. Anyway, this one was easily the best of the four.