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 ADVANCED
Nautilus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 
Air Voyager With Report S 
Automotive Supply House T 
Baalbek T 
Baldwin's Chimney T 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 
Bat Heaven T,TR 
Blood Sport TR 
Bombay T 
Bombs Away aka B52 T 
Bug Squad T 
Candlestick T 
Cannonball T 
Captain Nemo T 
Central Scrutinizer, The T 
Cool Hand Luke T 
Cornelius T 
Crankenstein T 
Cupcake T 
Deception T 
Deep Throat T 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 
Dual T 
Easy Jam T 
Ejector-Rejector TR 
Elevator T 
Escalator T 
Etude For The Left Hand TR 
Etude For The Right Hand S 
Failure to Communicate T 
Father 1 T 
Final Cut, The T,S 
Finally T 
Flare Thee Well T 
Flying Buttress T 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 
Friday the 13th T 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 
Ghost Dance T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
H & H Grunt T 
Hairlip T 
Hamburger Crack T 
Handjacker T 
Harder Than Your Husband T 
Hemoglobin T,TR 
Hesitation Blues T 
Horticulture T 
Humper T 
In The Dark T 
In the Groove T 
Jim Jam T 
Jim Jam Junior T 
Joke T 
Knee Grinder T,TR 
Knothole T 
Left Torpedo Tube T 
Lower Progressive T 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 
Lower Slot Left T 
Lower Slot Right T 
Lucky You T 
Max Factor T 
MaxiLash T 
Middle Parallel Space T 
Mother 1 T 
Nemo's Nemesis S 
Nemo's Toad T,TR 
Nitrogen Narcosis T 
Octagon T 
October Light T 
Old Eyeful T 
Outrider S 
Par Four T,TR 
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 
Piton Perch T 
Popcorn Farce T 
Postman, The T,S 
Pretty S 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space T 
Right Torpedo Tube T 
Right Winger T 
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer T 
Slat T 
Slick and Superficial T,S 
Slit T 
Slut T,TR 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver S 
Step Ladder T 
Stinkzig T 
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation T,TR 
Ted's Trot T 
Tempest 
Thin Lizzy T 
Thunderbolt T 
TTL T 
TTR T,TR 
Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive T 
Upper Slot Left T 
Vault T 
Vedajuicer, The T 
Vulture Direct T 
Wall-To-Wall T 
War Zone T,S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy T 
Unsorted Routes:

Piton Perch 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,060
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Aug 31, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Piton Perch is the obvious deep chimney in the cen...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I always think of an old climbing buddy from the Gunks- Rich Perch- when I think of this climb, although I don't think he had anything to do with it.

Located on the S side of the crag left of Lower Progressive, PP takes the obvious chimney line which ends right of the Parabolic Slabs overhanging side.

This climb is mostly easier chimneying and stemming (wide at points) that has a distinct crux at a chockstone.

The key to passing a chockstone in a chimney rests in your body position, which in turn depends upon how well you are using your lower body (feet, legs, etc.). By stemming or chimneying high, less reliance on pulling with the arms is required. On this climb, face holds and jams may help augment the pure stemming and chimneying techniques employed, but they should not overwhelm these methods. Climb methodically, in control, and be confident that each move is reversible, and each body position is secure.

Descend to the right, eventually locating some rap anchors.

Protection 

There are placements for varying sizes of gear, but overall expect some runout climbing.


Comments on Piton Perch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Craig Quincy
Sep 4, 2003

I'd recommend bringing several long slings to help with protection [opportunities]. At the beginning I burrowed underneath the large chockstone and developed wicked rope drag. To cure the problem, I went off belay on top of the chockstone and pulled all the rope through and tossed it back to my belayer. Perhaps you're supposed to go on the other side of the intital chockstone to prevent these problems.
By nolteboy
Jun 23, 2005

Very good route. Moving past the chockstone on the outside is definitely the way to go, but I remember it being a bit spooky... Options for gear improve soon after that.
By Rob Dillon
Aug 15, 2005

160' to the Parabolic Slab anchors if you manage the rope well.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Sep 28, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Don't lead this if'n you're a 5.6 climber--FEELS a bit harder/funkier in spots. But it's absolute adventure fun!

Can be lead in two pitches to the very top of the potato chip. And save yourself all that nasty rope drag around that first chockstone (AND avoid the spooky move around the outside of that thing) by class 4 humping you and your partner up to the back of the chimney before even roping up. Rope should run free at this point. Pitch 2, run all the way out to the rap rings atop the chip and extend the anchor back to the chimney (30-40ft) for a better bring up.

FAIR WARNING TO FATTIES! The walk down the "hall" at the top of the chimney is TIGHT! I'm considered 'average' build and I had to suck in like a yogi just to get through. Up higher looks wider, if'n you have the sack.