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I always think of an old climbing buddy from the Gunks- Rich Perch- when I think of this climb, although I don't think he had anything to do with it.
Located on the S side of the crag left of Lower Progressive, PP takes the obvious chimney line which ends right of the Parabolic Slabs overhanging side.
This climb is mostly easier chimneying and stemming (wide at points) that has a distinct crux at a chockstone.
The key to passing a chockstone in a chimney rests in your body position, which in turn depends upon how well you are using your lower body (feet, legs, etc.). By stemming or chimneying high, less reliance on pulling with the arms is required. On this climb, face holds and jams may help augment the pure stemming and chimneying techniques employed, but they should not overwhelm these methods. Climb methodically, in control, and be confident that each move is reversible, and each body position is secure.
Descend to the right, eventually locating some rap anchors.
There are placements for varying sizes of gear, but overall expect some runout climbing.
|By Craig Quincy|
Sep 4, 2003
I'd recommend bringing several long slings to help with protection [opportunities]. At the beginning I burrowed underneath the large chockstone and developed wicked rope drag. To cure the problem, I went off belay on top of the chockstone and pulled all the rope through and tossed it back to my belayer. Perhaps you're supposed to go on the other side of the intital chockstone to prevent these problems.
Jun 23, 2005
Very good route. Moving past the chockstone on the outside is definitely the way to go, but I remember it being a bit spooky... Options for gear improve soon after that.
|By Rob Dillon|
From: '81 Sunrader
Aug 15, 2005
160' to the Parabolic Slab anchors if you manage the rope well.
|By Top Rope Hero|
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Sep 28, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Don't lead this if'n you're a 5.6 climber--FEELS a bit harder/funkier in spots. But it's absolute adventure fun!
Can be lead in two pitches to the very top of the potato chip. And save yourself all that nasty rope drag around that first chockstone (AND avoid the spooky move around the outside of that thing) by class 4 humping you and your partner up to the back of the chimney before even roping up. Rope should run free at this point. Pitch 2, run all the way out to the rap rings atop the chip and extend the anchor back to the chimney (30-40ft) for a better bring up.
FAIR WARNING TO FATTIES! The walk down the "hall" at the top of the chimney is TIGHT! I'm considered 'average' build and I had to suck in like a yogi just to get through. Up higher looks wider, if'n you have the sack.