|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Cory Fleagle, Aaron Miller, Jason Maurer (8/12/10)|
|Submitted By:||Cor on Aug 31, 2010|
|Comments on Piton D'Or (The Golden Piton)||Add Comment|
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protection - 1 set nuts, 1 set cams from tiny to #3 Camalot, with a few extras in the #0.75-2 Camalot range - the pitches are long, after all. Also a #4 Camalot is useful once or twice on the route, particularly at the short crux of P3, but in that case, the 'old' #4 is better than the C4 #4.
P1. (5.9 crux to start) 55m.
Move the belay up and right.
P2. (moderate, to below wide crack headwall) 58m.
P3. Wide crack headwall - 55m to near summit tower.
P4. Moderate climbing up mixed features: 30m.
P5. Some heady moves in spots if you are not watching your line of ascent - 5.9, 25m.
Also- notes on the descent: all raps are single cord, single locking biner. The next people up should take more cord or webbing and some steel links.
Rap 1 is to the NE corner of the spire cap, about 60' to a cord facing down into the gully.
Rap 2 is a 2x rope rap to the ends of the rope of a 60m (50m will stop you further up the hill and you simply scramble further).
You walk down the gully for perhaps 250meters (5 min) until you nearly cliff out.
We were not able to find the last single rope rap described here.
At that point, cross the gully Westward to the main buttress near a few pines and bushes. A little scrambling down and skier's right will take you across the face back to the belay atop P2 and beyond. Continue to the West edge of the face, about level with that belay (there is a small cairn there, leaning against the rock) and past that to overlook down into the gully. We set a rap there that with a single 70m lands you 40' from the starting moves - and almost right atop your pack. A single 60m would leave you with some moderate downclimbing for 15'.
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