|Piton D'Or (The Golden Piton) || |
This route is on the spire to the climber's left (west) of the Otis Flower Tower.
The spire has been climbed before. I could not find a name for it, so we dubbed it The Piton Spire.
This route starts on the left side of the formation on a rock ledge.
Clip the golden piton at the start, and step out right over a void. Gain the dihedral and climb!
After the dihedral/pitch 1, move/walk the belay right until you are under a wide crack looming above. Climb the slabs up to the wide crack/left-facing dihedral. Climb it to a ledge.
Move slightly left to climb more slabs/wide crack/right-facing dihedral to another ledge.
Climb short broken terrain up to the summit ridge, and head right up the ridge to the top.
To descend, rap off summit to notch behind spire (single rope), then a double rope rap into the gully to the east. Scramble down, and make one more single rap to the ground below.
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Overview of route.
BETA PHOTO: Overview of pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 (not counting the move of belay).
BETA PHOTO: Cor leading the last pitch of piton d'or on The Pi...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Protection - 1 set nuts, 1 set cams from tiny to #3 Camalot, with a few extras in the #0.75-2 Camalot range - the pitches are long, after all. Also a #4 Camalot is useful once or twice on the route, particularly at the short crux of P3, but in that case, the 'old' #4 is better than the C4 #4.
P1. (5.9 crux to start) 55m.
Move the belay up and right.
P2. (moderate, to below wide crack headwall) 58m.
P3. Wide crack headwall - 55m to near summit tower.
P4. Moderate climbing up mixed features: 30m.
P5. Some heady moves in spots if you are not watching your line of ascent - 5.9, 25m.
Also- notes on the descent: all raps are single cord, single locking biner. The next people up should take more cord or webbing and some steel links.
Rap 1 is to the NE corner of the spire cap, about 60' to a cord facing down into the gully.
Rap 2 is a 2x rope rap to the ends of the rope of a 60m (50m will stop you further up the hill and you simply scramble further).
You walk down the gully for perhaps 250meters (5 min) until you nearly cliff out.
We were not able to find the last single rope rap described here.
At that point, cross the gully Westward to the main buttress near a few pines and bushes. A little scrambling down and skier's right will take you across the face back to the belay atop P2 and beyond. Continue to the West edge of the face, about level with that belay (there is a small cairn there, leaning against the rock) and past that to overlook down into the gully. We set a rap there that with a single 70m lands you 40' from the starting moves - and almost right atop your pack. A single 60m would leave you with some moderate downclimbing for 15'.