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Black Wonton, The 
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Pit and the Pendulum 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 709
Submitted By: Mike Baetz on Jun 26, 2008
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Start just right of the deep "pit" near the middle of the cliff. Climb up an easy slab to crack in the underside of the overlap. Plug in some gear, and make a tricky move around the overlap. Head up on easier, but fun ground. Sort of choose your own adventure above the overlap, since there are several diagonal cracks to choose from.


Bolted anchor; climb can be top roped but on lead natural protection is good. On toprope, a fall below the overlap results in a good swing and is a real rope eater.

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By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Jan 13, 2012

As a fun variation, start in the pit. Follow the small crack until you reach the roof, and follow the route from there.