Pistol Whipped wall from near parking area
A good area with a nice variety of climbs. Although somewhat remote, the climbing quality, concentration, and difficulty insures that this areas still sees a good amount of traffic. Most climbs reside in the 10+ range with a few 5.11 classics.
The buttress faces west and as a result gets good sun later in the day. With proper timing it's a good choice on both hot or cold days.
From the Hwy 211/Beef Basin road junction head south several miles until you encounter a fence and cattle guard. A few hundred yards past this (the *second* road on the left) look for a well-maintained road that angles back to the northeast.
Take this road through an active creek (good 2WD's can make it) past the cottonwoods to another road junction. Turn right and go about a mile until you are directly under the point of the buttress where it starts to jut back east. Pull off the road and park. Road improvements in the past several years have trivialized the drive and taken a large chunk off the approach.
Find a cairned trail that follows a shallow wash (please take a second to find it!) and then up the talus to the base. From here, climbs fan out to either side, but take a topo or a knowledgable friend as very few plaques exist.
Weather station 13.1 miles from here
40 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Pistol Whipped
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pistol Whipped:
Wolf's Ear 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Sig Sauer 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Fairy Tales 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Pistol Whipped
Spaghetti Western 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a UT
: Moab Area
: ... : Pistol Whipped
One of the longest and best routes at Pistol Whipped. This follows the obvious overhanging right facing hand-crack-dihedral 30 feet to the right of Coyne Crack Simulator. Some moderate liebacking leads to the beautiful hand crack which is the meat of the route. Most people will find the 5.11+ rating is a little bit generous so give it a go!...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Clint and Annie on the approach to Pistol Whipped
By Eddie F
From: Boulder, co
May 14, 2014
I accidentally left my green, whit, and black backpack in the parking lot! If found please call (708) 712-oo81 and leave a voicemail if I don't answer!!! Reward if found, beer, money, good karma for your project, whatever! That backpack is my life... Thanks, Eddie.
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 19, 2009
As of November 09, a wash has taken out part of the road half way between the cottonwoods and the parking area. A route has been made through the washout and it is passable in a high clearance vehicle with 2WD. Due to the steepness of the drop in and out of the wash, and the short distance, a low clearance or vehicle with a long wheelbase might auger its front end into the opposite bank. Just a heads up since this spot may get worse in the future.