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Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)
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Select Route:
Anabel 
Avalanche 
Baby Ricky 
Big Ricky 
C.F.'s Edge Crank 
Crystal Clear 
Dave's Problem 
Diamond Man 
Diamond Man Dyno 
Faith 
Fale Problem 
Gather Up 
Green Burrito 
Head Above the Stairs 
High Over Beached Whales 
Hinge Direct 
Hinge Indirect 
Hinge, The 
Iron Man 
Italian Fall 
Knob City 
Layback, The 
Lieback 
Lttle Ricky 
Not Even 
Not Even Chips (and reverse) 
Nowhere Man 
Onion Man 
Pin Hole 
Pin Scar 
Pin Scar Direct 
Poodle Press 
Pyramid, The 
Rib Romp 
Sand Gully 
Shark's Tooth 
Shelf, The 
Tin Man 

Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar) 


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Lat, Long: 33.5949, -117.8781 Map
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Administrators: M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 26, 2007

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Summer climbing times restricted MORE INFO >>>


BETA PHOTO: South cave. Right of staircase (if viewed from bea...

Description 

Shade and Sun. Best times are late in the day after the cliff has had some time to dry out. The climbing here is characterized by sandstone caves that come out into a short cliff. The sandstone is typically juggy. It can be VERY greasy. Recommended to bring shoes, chalkbag, brush for holds, towel to clean off shoes and get sand out of your eyes. Awesome landings onto soft sand beach. No need for a crashpad in many spots.

Craig Fry's "Southern California Bouldering Guide, 2nd edition" has this area listed and info.


Getting There 

Drive to Corona Del Mar State Beach. There is free parking along the roads that run along the beach or pay parking inside the park. The Cliff is located at the extreme west side of the beach. If you're in the beach parking lot head west past the picnic area and scramble over the rocks to a staircase that leads down the cliff to the beach and bouldering.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar):
Tin Man   V0+     Boulder, 15 feet   
Green Burrito   V1     Boulder, 30 feet   
Anabel   V2     Boulder   
Crystal Clear   V2     Boulder, 20 feet   
Not Even   V2     Boulder, 20 feet   
Pin Scar Direct   V2-3     Boulder, 15 feet   
Iron Man   V2-3     Boulder, 18 feet, Grade V   
Italian Fall   V3-4     Trad, Boulder   
Diamond Man   V4     Boulder, 25 feet   
Faith   V6-7     Trad, Boulder, 20 feet   
Lieback   5.7 V-easy     Boulder, 20 feet   
The Hinge   5.9+     TR, 20 feet   
Browse More Classics in Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)

Featured Route For Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)
Diamond Man

Diamond Man V4  CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : ... : Pirate's Cove (aka The Beac...
Starting in cave at same location as Iron Man, head out left on smaller holds going up between Iron Man and Onion Man. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar) Slideshow Add Photo
Caves left of staircase.

BETA PHOTO: Caves left of staircase.

Caves further left (north) of staircase.

BETA PHOTO: Caves further left (north) of staircase.

Looking down at Pirate's Cove (Corona Del Mar Beach, AKA The Beach)

BETA PHOTO: Looking down at Pirate's Cove (Corona Del Mar Beac...

CDM at sunset

CDM at sunset

AJ, Melinda, and Sebastian climbing in Corona Del Mar

AJ, Melinda, and Sebastian climbing in Corona Del ...

City Ordinance Crack 5.11+ 1980s.

City Ordinance Crack 5.11+ 1980s.

Enjoying the sunset after a good session!

Enjoying the sunset after a good session!

Sandman V3+  <br />I don't know if this route already exist but if it does please correct me and make the changes as you wish.

BETA PHOTO: Sandman V3+
I don't know if this route already ex...



Comments on Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shawn Adams
From: Hyde Park, New York
Jan 23, 2010

Choss pile.....
Dirty diapers and dead things, need I say more?

By Patricio Chervin
Mar 27, 2010

Hey, does anyone have video or picture of someone finishing Anabel sometime in the last year or so (since lots of the original holds are now missing). Any beta would help! Thanks, Patrick.

By Elias
From: Trunk of my car, USA
Dec 12, 2012

I came, I climbed, I was watched like Chris Sharma.

By Jacob S.
From: Garden Grove, CA
Jan 29, 2013

Does anybody know of any established problems on the first set of boulders down the main stairs? There are three "boulders" to the right leading out to the water that are very climbable, but I haven't seen any established problems for them.