Shade and Sun. Best times are late in the day after the cliff has had some time to dry out. The climbing here is characterized by sandstone caves that come out into a short cliff. The sandstone is typically juggy. It can be VERY greasy. Recommended to bring shoes, chalkbag, brush for holds, towel to clean off shoes and get sand out of your eyes. Awesome landings onto soft sand beach. No need for a crashpad in many spots.
Drive to Corona Del Mar State Beach. There is free parking along the roads that run along the beach or pay parking inside the park. The Cliff is located at the extreme west side of the beach. If you're in the beach parking lot head west past the picnic area and scramble over the rocks to a staircase that leads down the cliff to the beach and bouldering.
38 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar):
Pin Hole V0 4 PG13 Boulder, 1 pitch, 20'
Onion Man V0 4 Boulder, 20'
Tin Man V0+ 4+ Boulder, 15'
Crystal Clear V2 5+ Boulder, 20'
Not Even V2 5+ Boulder, 20'
Anabel V2 5+ Boulder
C.F.'s Edge Crank V2 5+ PG13 Boulder, 20'
Iron Man V2-3 5+ Boulder, 18'
Italian Fall V3-4 6A+ Trad, Boulder
Hinge Direct V4 6B Boulder, 20'
Diamond Man V4 6B Boulder, 25'
Faith V6-7 7A+ Trad, Boulder, 20'
Lieback 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b V-easy 3 Boulder, 20'
The Pyramid 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 15'
The Hinge 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a TR, 20'
Featured Route For Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)
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