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DescriptionShade and Sun. Best times are late in the day after the cliff has had some time to dry out. The climbing here is characterized by sandstone caves that come out into a short cliff. The sandstone is typically juggy. It can be VERY greasy. Recommended to bring shoes, chalkbag, brush for holds, towel to clean off shoes and get sand out of your eyes. Awesome landings onto soft sand beach. No need for a crashpad in many spots. Getting ThereDrive to Corona Del Mar State Beach. There is free parking along the roads that run along the beach or pay parking inside the park. The Cliff is located at the extreme west side of the beach. If you're in the beach parking lot head west past the picnic area and scramble over the rocks to a staircase that leads down the cliff to the beach and bouldering. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar):
Tin Man V0+ Boulder, 15 feet
Green Burrito V1 Boulder, 30 feet
Anabel V2 Boulder
Crystal Clear V2 Boulder, 20 feet
Not Even V2 Boulder, 20 feet
Pin Scar Direct V2-3 Boulder, 15 feet
Iron Man V2-3 Boulder, 18 feet, Grade V
Italian Fall V3-4 Trad, Boulder
Diamond Man V4 Boulder, 25 feet
Faith V6-7 Trad, Boulder, 20 feet
Lieback 5.7 V-easy Boulder, 20 feet
The Hinge 5.9+ TR, 20 feet
Featured Route For Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)
Diamond Man V4 CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : ... : Pirate's Cove (aka The Beac...
Starting in cave at same location as Iron Man, head out left on smaller holds going up between Iron Man and Onion Man. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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