Shade and Sun. Best times are late in the day after the cliff has had some time to dry out. The climbing here is characterized by sandstone caves that come out into a short cliff. The sandstone is typically juggy. It can be VERY greasy. Recommended to bring shoes, chalkbag, brush for holds, towel to clean off shoes and get sand out of your eyes. Awesome landings onto soft sand beach. No need for a crashpad in many spots.
Drive to Corona Del Mar State Beach. There is free parking along the roads that run along the beach or pay parking inside the park. The Cliff is located at the extreme west side of the beach. If you're in the beach parking lot head west past the picnic area and scramble over the rocks to a staircase that leads down the cliff to the beach and bouldering.
38 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar):
Onion Man V0 4 Boulder, 20'
Hinge Indirect V0 4 Boulder, 20'
Pin Hole V0 4 PG13 Boulder, 1 pitch, 20'
Tin Man V0+ 4+ Boulder, 15'
Head Above the Stairs V0+ 4+ R Boulder, 25'
Green Burrito V1 5 Boulder, 30'
Anabel V2 5+ Boulder
Not Even V2 5+ Boulder, 20'
Crystal Clear V2 5+ Boulder, 20'
Not Even Chips (and reverse) V2+ 5+ PG13 Boulder, 20'
Pin Scar Direct V2-3 5+ Boulder, 15'
Iron Man V2-3 5+ Boulder, 18'
Nowhere Man V3-4 6a+ Boulder
Italian Fall V3-4 6a+ Trad, Boulder
Diamond Man V4 6b Boulder, 25'
Big Ricky V4 6b Trad, Boulder, 20'
Shark's Tooth V4-5 6b+ Trad, Boulder, 20'
Faith V6-7 7a+ Trad, Boulder, 20'
Knob City 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c V-easy 3 Boulder, 15'
The Hinge 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a TR, 20'
Featured Route For Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)
News and Events For Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)