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 ADVANCED
Pirate's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blackbeard S 
Booty (aka Long John) S 
Oxymorons S 
Pirated S 
Scurvy Dog S 
Trick or Treat? (aka Captain Hook) S 
Walking the Plank (aka The Buzz) S 

Pirated 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bolted and FA: Miguel Grijalva
Page Views: 1,680
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Apr 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

Starting atop the pillars, climb through rather sustained, endurance climbing, until you hit the top. The crux is clipping the anchors.


Location 

Starts directly on the large block at the right end of the crag. Just left of the black streak that is Blackbeard.


Protection 

6 bolts to anchors.



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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jun 25, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I was actually pleasantly surprised by this route. While it definitely isn't as good as some of its neighbors, the climbing is clean, sustained and pretty fun. Clipping the anchors is a bit tricky but not unreasonable. No lowering hardware at present, just chains. Be prepared to clean it.

By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Dec 20, 2011

this route was bolted and sent by Miguel Grijalva

By Mort
Oct 27, 2013

You can stretch to clip from below or climb until your hands are just above them. I think the climbing is actually pretty fun. You can climb fairly distinct lines through the middle - left or right.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I pulled off an undercling between the last bolt and the anchor on May 17, 2014. While it doesn't change the grade, it is a bummer to lose a cool hold.

By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 4, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun, fairly sustained, with a .11 crux in the middle and difficult moves to clip the anchors.