Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Bryan Gilmore and John Varco circa 1999
Page Views: 1,371 total · 11/month
Shared By: Greg Gavin on Sep 30, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Looking for some adventure, and wanna get off the deck? This thing climbs more like a tower than any mundane splitter you'll find at the base. Kind of like the big brother to Neutron Dance.

20 ft right of Middle Crack lies a pile of choss. Pick the cleanest 5.8 path up the bottom portion, and step into a short finger crack. Climb up this till you find yourself at the bottom of a short 5.8 ow. Climb this and step left and you'll be at the bottom of a 40ft squeeze. Squirm up here to the top, and belay at 2 Metolius rap hangers.

From here the route is obvious as it ascends the splitter big hands to fist crack. Climb this bad boy up and squeeze through a few pods at the top and belay on a sloping ledge with 2 bolts.

There is a hand crack on the right side of this ledge that continues up, but we did not take the opportunity to venture further.

Location Suggest change

The start is 20 feet right of Middle Crack, and the second pitch is the splitter directly above. Can't miss it!

Protection Suggest change

Single set from .3-#1, 2x #2, 4-5 #3 & #4, Single #5. New Camalot Sizes.

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