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Reservoir Wall
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Pirate Treasure  
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Pirate Treasure  

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bryan Gilmore and John Varco circa 1999
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: Greg G on Sep 30, 2013
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Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Looking for some adventure, and wanna get off the deck? This thing climbs more like a tower than any mundane splitter you'll find at the base. Kind of like the big brother to Neutron Dance.

20 ft right of Middle Crack lies a pile of choss. Pick the cleanest 5.8 path up the bottom portion, and step into a short finger crack. Climb up this till you find yourself at the bottom of a short 5.8 ow. Climb this and step left and you'll be at the bottom of a 40ft squeeze. Squirm up here to the top, and belay at 2 Metolius rap hangers.

From here the route is obvious as it ascends the splitter big hands to fist crack. Climb this bad boy up and squeeze through a few pods at the top and belay on a sloping ledge with 2 bolts.

There is a hand crack on the right side of this ledge that continues up, but we did not take the opportunity to venture further.


Location 

The start is 20 feet right of Middle Crack, and the second pitch is the splitter directly above. Can't miss it!


Protection 

Single set from .3-#1, 2x #2, 4-5 #3 & #4, Single #5. New Camalot Sizes.



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By Eric Fjellanger
Nov 12, 2013

There IS a good anchor on the second pitch, on a big ledge above some dirty squeeze chimney climbing with sketchy chockstones.

The p1 chimney is pretty fun and can be climbed utilizing a hand crack (that forms the second pitch). The wide-hands crack on p2 is really great climbing.

However the chimneys and flares above that are pretty nasty, hard, unaesthetic climbing. Maybe my experience was colored by not being sure whether there was an anchor above, but I definitely wish there were bolts at the end of the hand crack.

By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Mar 18, 2014

FA: Bryan Gilmore and John Varco circa 1999 or 2000

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Mar 19, 2014

Bryan did you guys take it to the rim? I assume you did.