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|Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>|
Looking for some adventure, and wanna get off the deck? This thing climbs more like a tower than any mundane splitter you'll find at the base. Kind of like the big brother to Neutron Dance.
20 ft right of Middle Crack lies a pile of choss. Pick the cleanest 5.8 path up the bottom portion, and step into a short finger crack. Climb up this till you find yourself at the bottom of a short 5.8 ow. Climb this and step left and you'll be at the bottom of a 40ft squeeze. Squirm up here to the top, and belay at 2 Metolius rap hangers.
From here the route is obvious as it ascends the splitter big hands to fist crack. Climb this bad boy up and squeeze through a few pods at the top and belay on a sloping ledge with 2 bolts.
There is a hand crack on the right side of this ledge that continues up, but we did not take the opportunity to venture further.
The start is 20 feet right of Middle Crack, and the second pitch is the splitter directly above. Can't miss it!
Single set from .3-#1, 2x #2, 4-5 #3 & #4, Single #5. New Camalot Sizes.
|Comments on Pirate Treasure
|By Eric Fjellanger|
Nov 12, 2013
There IS a good anchor on the second pitch, on a big ledge above some dirty squeeze chimney climbing with sketchy chockstones.
The p1 chimney is pretty fun and can be climbed utilizing a hand crack (that forms the second pitch). The wide-hands crack on p2 is really great climbing.
However the chimneys and flares above that are pretty nasty, hard, unaesthetic climbing. Maybe my experience was colored by not being sure whether there was an anchor above, but I definitely wish there were bolts at the end of the hand crack.