Pitch 1 - Start just left of the Mother Lode, either up the chimney or on the prow/arete to the left. Gain the corner above and step out to the right clipping a few bolts up to the 2-bolt chained anchor (5.9).
Pitch 2 - Clip one bolt to gain the hand crack above. Climb through the 2nd pitch of the Mother Lode into the clean, finger corner above and continue up the face past 5 bolts to gain the Mother Load belay ledge (5.10c/d).
Pitch 3 - Step up and right and climb the new bolts to the top of the wall (5.10b). FFA on this pitch was Jed Selby-2009
Gear to 3" and 15 quickdraws are needed for this 3 pitch adventure. A 70m rope makes for a simple descent back down the the same route. 3 rappels brings you to the ground. The descent with a 60m rope is possible if you rappel to The Other Road anchors to the left....
M. Miner climbing up to the 1st anchor on Pirate M...
|By Ryan Edwards|
Jul 3, 2011
Climbed this, and there was another line of bolts that I could reach out to the right and touch from the upper section of "Pirate Mode". Does anybody know what that line is called or rated? Also, does anyone have beta for the lines in the area marked as "Bird's Nest" in the "Temporary Change of Seasons" topo photo?
|By Drew Spaulding|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2011
The line out right of Pirate Mode is Momentary Lapse of Reason! 2-pitch 5.11a....