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 ADVANCED
Trailhead Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brother Toad S 
Hemp Seeds Sowed S 
Mother Lode T,S 
Other Road, The T,S 
Otis S 
Pirate Mode T,S 
Rad Lad S 
Squid Kid S 
Temporary Change of Season T,S 
Trooper Traverse T 

Pirate Mode 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 275', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Drew Spaulding, Zach Holtzman, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 741
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on May 28, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Pirate Mode starts just left of The Mother Load an...

Description 

Pitch 1 - Start just left of the Mother Lode, either up the chimney or on the prow/arete to the left. Gain the corner above and step out to the right clipping a few bolts up to the 2-bolt chained anchor (5.9).

Pitch 2 - Clip one bolt to gain the hand crack above. Climb through the 2nd pitch of the Mother Lode into the clean, finger corner above and continue up the face past 5 bolts to gain the Mother Load belay ledge (5.10c/d).

Pitch 3 - Step up and right and climb the new bolts to the top of the wall (5.10b). FFA on this pitch was Jed Selby-2009


Protection 

Gear to 3" and 15 quickdraws are needed for this 3 pitch adventure. A 70m rope makes for a simple descent back down the the same route. 3 rappels brings you to the ground. The descent with a 60m rope is possible if you rappel to The Other Road anchors to the left....



Photos of Pirate Mode Slideshow Add Photo
M. Miner climbing up to the 1st anchor on Pirate Mode.
M. Miner climbing up to the 1st anchor on Pirate M...
Comments on Pirate Mode Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Edwards
Jul 3, 2011

Climbed this, and there was another line of bolts that I could reach out to the right and touch from the upper section of "Pirate Mode". Does anybody know what that line is called or rated? Also, does anyone have beta for the lines in the area marked as "Bird's Nest" in the "Temporary Change of Seasons" topo photo?

By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2011

The line out right of Pirate Mode is Momentary Lapse of Reason! 2-pitch 5.11a....