The first 25 feet of this route is where all the business happens. Technical start with tricky/awkward sequences until you reach the bulge 20' off the deck. Pull through the bulge and mantle to a rest. Avoid moving left at the bulge for full value. A bit runout up top but the climbing backs off considerably. Not the most intriguing route but could be better with more traffic.
start approximately 7' right of Big Rocks. The center bolt line around the corner from sleeping bat.
bolts, top anchors are probably getting pretty old by now
Moving through the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Rope hanging on Piranha.
|By K Ice|
From: Saint Paul, MN
Apr 4, 2008
Traverse left or right at the top to use the anchors on the adjacent routes. Some fun moves!
From: Duluth Mn
May 28, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
There are anchors above this route but they are old, rusty open shuts that are far apart. You can use them as a directional along with the achors off to the left but I would not trust them alone.
From: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Jul 2, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Don't mind the description. I found this route quite "intriguing" and would recommend it to anyone looking for a low 12 to work. Awesome boulder-y and technical crux up to the 3rd clip. Then do some sweet tic-tacky moves over the bulge. A classic Red Wing 12 in my book. Get on it!