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 ADVANCED
Slhanay (The Squaw)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birds of Prey T 
Face Your Creator T 
Feather, The T 
Great Game, The T 
Jungle Warfare T 
Photophobia T 
Pipeline T 
Right Wing T 
Supernatural T 
XTC Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Pipeline 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: L. Patterson, B. Hagen, G. Woodsworth '66, FFA: G. Cameron (solo) 1979
Page Views: 5,498
Submitted By: Bob Graham on Oct 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Jon past the crux on Pipeline.

Description 

The guidebook calls it, "A magnificant squeeze chimney in a majestic curving dihedral." Climb Birds of Prey onto the slim ramp, and belay. Continue up the steepening ramp, and belay in the offwidth. Then the follow the beautiful sweeping "pipeline" off-width pitch for about 170 ft to the top. This is no a squeeze chimney, I am small and did not fit in it. If you have larger feet you will get heel toe jams.

Location 

Walk off/down climb

Protection 

big gear the cracks stays pretty much in a very big size from old #5 camalots to new #6 camalots or wild country. Bring some big bros, green and maybe 1 blue. Some small gear for after the crux is helpful although the climbing eases it is a long way to the belay, yellow alien to 1 # camalot I think it was. No anchors at the top, bring long slings to use a tree.


Photos of Pipeline Slideshow Add Photo
Still a long way from the top of Pipeline.  Photo ...
Still a long way from the top of Pipeline. Photo ...
Enjoying Pipeline. Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matt...
Enjoying Pipeline. Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matt...
Zach on Pipeline.
Zach on Pipeline.
The Pipeline a very striking line
The Pipeline a very striking line
Pipeline, approaching the rest/cave before the sli...
Pipeline, approaching the rest/cave before the sli...
Coming off of the anchor.
Coming off of the anchor.

Comments on Pipeline Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Nov 21, 2007

For a very entertaining read about offwidths in general, and Pipeline in particlar, see Mikey's Offwidth Journal

I had thought that this material had disappeared from the web, but it appears that the URL changed in the last year or two.
By Greg Cameron
Jun 5, 2008

Mike's stuff is indeed amusing.
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Jul 2, 2008

Greg,

I'm sure this is a long shot, but "G. Cameron" did the FFA and here you are, a Greg Cameron, posting about the route... Am I on to something here?
By Greg Cameron
Jul 3, 2008

Peter, yeah, I'm that G. Cameron. Haven't been back to Squamish since that trip in 1979 that included doing Pipeline. By the way, the same trip saw the first ascent of Freeway by my buddies Tom Gibson and Rob Rohn. I love Squamish.
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Jul 4, 2008

Greg, good to see you're poking around this site. Both Pipeline and Freeway are on my list for this summer. I've taken an initial crack at Freeway Lite, but haven't even been to the Sqaw yet. What else did you get up to on that visit?
By L Stern
From: Golden, CO
Jul 29, 2009

My partner led this climb. He recommends one 9" Valley Giant with 1-2 optional 6" cams (BD C4 #6), or several 7-8" tube chocks.
By sam123456789
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

#6 camelots fit "not just good, but good enough." I bumped one #6 BD camelot for most of the way. Would recommend two #6 camelots and a blue big bro. It's many variables of tipped out #6 BD camelots for most of the pitch and beautiful! Just quit reading and do it already!
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Oct 9, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Amazing offwidth! Got on this last week armed with 2x #6 camalots and 2x VG9! Overkill for the rack but, I didn't mind having them.



Beta Alert! Don't read further if you want to avoid beta:





First thing to note is to bring a 6 to get to the anchors below pipeline. (ie. when doing the second pitch of birds of prey but, going right instead of left). It's easy climbing up the ramp but, I was happy to be able to protect it and keep my second from swinging like crazy if he slipped climbing the hand crack.

Minimum rack I'd use would be 1 x6 and 1 VG9 (or similarly sized big bro). It was really nice to have 2 6 and 2 VGs though.

I wore a thick long sleeve shirt and a t-shirt on top. Didn't need tape for the hands but, did tape my ankles and left knee. Seemed like it covered what I needed.

Pipeline is pretty much 4 sections:
1. Initial low angle ~10 meters. Pretty easy and #6 fits very nicely. If you have 2x 6s, you can leave one here, otherwise you may want to take it with you for the last section.

2. Getting to the bolt ~7 meters. Turns mostly vertical and widens a bit. I started using a VG9 here. Not as bad as it seems as there are good footholds on the lip of the crack that you can stand up on while smearing your body against the wall. You can leave a VG9 just before it widens too much and use the good footholds on the face to get to the bolt. Then downclimb and bit and get the VG9 (or keep going with a second one if you have it)

3. After the bolt is the business ~6 meters. Not a lot of great footholds anywhere and offwidth technique is actually necessary. Heel toe cams, arm bars and chicken wings through the overhang while pushing up a VG9. Amazing foothold on the right at the end of the overhang to stem off of. If you have a 6 on your harness, you can leave the VG9 near the top of the overhang.

4. The last ramp ~20 meters. Pretty mellow. Use the slabby feet on the right and push a 6 with you the rest of the way. Scramble up the last bit and your done!

You only need big gear and a draw for the bolt. No other cams or nuts are necessary for the offwidth pitch.


Get out there and enjoy it!