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The Kiser Boulder
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Pipeline? aka the Kiser Problem 

Pipeline? aka the Kiser Problem 

Hueco: V6- Font: 7A PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6- Font: 7A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 471
Submitted By: Will Barnes on Jun 26, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Get it

Description 

The beginning is the technical crux but you'll be on your toes all the way to the top.

Start down low and to the left on two good slanted pockets, move up to the decent but small pocket and figure out how to get to the slopey smiley face dish high and right. There's a couple ways to go about it (some harder than others). Once you hit the dish blast up to the big (but slopey) rail where you can cop a handjam.

At this point you probably want to center your chi for the couple moves to come because although they're easy, you don't want to blow it...the fall from here would not be pleasant. When your ready to go a couple steep, flaring (but surprisingly good) hand jams lead to a pretty good jug to top out.

A great problem that throws a lot at you.


Location 

The only route on the Kiser Boulder. This problem is characterized by a decent pocket at about chest height and two smiley face dishes a little higher up (one shallow, one deeper).


Protection 

A pad...or three



Photos of Pipeline? aka the Kiser Problem Slideshow Add Photo
The committing last move
The committing last move
Setting up
BETA PHOTO: Setting up
Joe Stover attempting Pipeline.
Joe Stover attempting Pipeline.
Comments on Pipeline? aka the Kiser Problem Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 27, 2013
By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
Jun 26, 2013

A little history of the problem for anyone who's interested:

Eric Kiser and Jake Sahl showed me this problem (then known as the Torque project) about 4 years ago now. Despite putting a lot of work into it none of us had the guns at the time to send so it was put on the back-burner till a later date.

This past spring Jake and I finally decided it was time to put this problem to rest and dedicate it to Eric who sadly passed away last year. Yesterday, after getting pumped on the Beatles' Revolver Album which we always used to listen to when bouldering, I decided it was time to give it a go. I hiked down with a rope, dropped in to clean the upper part and scope the holds (which I was very glad that I did) and sent after a few tries.

Although one must always be cautious to claim FAs out here, I feel fairly certain no one's climbed this before due to the condition of the upper part of the climb. If anyone has any info that proves otherwise so be it.

Also I'm happy to change the grade if people feel differently about it. Happy climbing! I'll be spending some more time in the area as well if anyone wants to check it out.

By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
Jun 28, 2013

Got rid of the suspect block and upper crimps a couple days ago so she's good to go.

By Bob Banks
Jul 1, 2013

Curious, does this problem have 3 names because other people have claimed it?

By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
Jul 1, 2013

As far as I know no one except Eric and Jake claimed it which is strange because although it's not in any of the main areas at the Brickyard, it's really not too far off the beaten path. The area itself has a lot of rock which I'm sure people have at least checked out in the past. Maybe no one wanted to deal with the upper half of the problem which has a sketchy fall and needed some good cleaning? Beats me...

The three names are mainly because we couldn't decide on a single one. Kiser problem because it's dedicated to Eric Kiser, Torque because they were calling it the Torque project, and Here There and Everywhere as a shout-out to Revolver which fueled a good amount of our morning sessions over the years. The Kiser Problem is the first and foremost, however.

By Richard Shore
Jul 1, 2013

I looked at it once back in 2008 and dubbed it the "Futuristic Problem with Too Many Names"...

By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
Jul 2, 2013

I admire your foresight Richard, I'll add it to the list.

By Kelly Lindsay
Jul 10, 2013

Pretty sure this is called Pipeline and Tony Bechio put this up many years ago. There are several other good problems down in this area, which is called Jah Hole. It is pretty overgrown down there, along with the downed tree.

By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
Jul 10, 2013

Thought this might be the case Kelly. Do you have any more info on the area? I've been spending a lot of time down here cleaning and unearthing some cool stuff (probably some old ones but I'm pretty sure some new ones as well). Would be stoked if you had an idea of what is what because I can't find any info on it...

By Kelly Lindsay
Jul 11, 2013

You won't find any information on Jah Hole and Little Zion as they are relatively only known by hard core locals. The original trail no longer exists, and the alternate route is heavily overgrown with vegetation. I am hoping to produce a comprehensive guide to all the bouldering on West Camino Cielo, but this is a huge undertaking and is going to take some time to get it right. Others are working on guides as well, so eventually the info will become availble to all. Until then, I will do my best to provide knowledge to your work. Best of luck down there!

By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 11, 2013

Part of the trail issue is that there are some "well-intentioned" people who are trying to protect the Chumash rock art site down there (Arrowhead Springs), so they are continually adding brush and blocking sections of the trail to keep people away. Usually they're only small piles. The trail is pretty open for the most part, but just expect road blocks from time to time.

I remember first tromping down there in '05 thinking "Hey, new rock!" until I found some stashed bouldering pads and a dozen not-too-new top rope bolts & hangers at Little Zion, haha.

It's too bad everything in SB County was completely climbed out years ago...

By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
Jul 12, 2013

The fall from the top has been officially taken and the pg13 rating remains, be careful up there...

By Kelly Lindsay
Jul 15, 2013

SB is not completely climbed out! I know some areas that have not been climbed.

By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 16, 2013

Haha! I'm pretty sure you knew I was joking...

By Tim King
Jul 16, 2013

SB is always climbed out!

By Kelly Lindsay
Jul 25, 2013

And it is one big choss pile.

By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
Jul 27, 2013

The weather sucks too