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Pipe Route 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: John Auld & Gary Ziegler, '61. FFA: Earl Wiggins & Jim Souder, '76
Page Views: 1,036
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Sep 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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I copied this photo from the South Gateway Rock pa...

Seasonal Closures - all are lifted - 10/25/14 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an exciting route that goes up the steep white face of the Indian Head formation, right of West Point Crack. It begins at an overhang with a new bolt just off the ground.

P1) Crank the overhang, then continue up on easier terrain past a thread for some protection, and another new bolt. Step right to a crack where you can place a #4 Camalot, then continue up to another new bolt. (At this point, the Indian Head Route continues straight up). Traverse right past 2 drilled pitons, and make an exciting move right to a left facing corner. You can place a #0.75 Camalot here, but it's not that great, nor is it too necessary. Climb to the top of the pillar and belay from two bolts and a ring angle piton. (5.9+, 90 feet)

P2) Climb straight up about 12 feet on steep, friable rock to a bolt and a piton. This is pretty exciting and has potential for a factor 2 fall onto the anchor. Traverse right about 10 feet to a left facing corner/flake/groove. It's possible to place a #3 Camalot here, but a few feet higher is another new bolt. Continue up steep, sustained, and loose climbing, past four more new bolts to the obvious saddle in the white rock. (5.10+ R, 70 feet)

Rappel the route. Or climb straight up a slab from the top of the flake on the right and walk off (5.6 R, 40 feet).

Location 

This route is located just right of West Point Crack. Part of the first pitch is shared with the Indian Head route, which continues up and and then left, where the Pipe Route traverses right. The first pitch is high quality. The second pitch is sustained and loose but offers interesting climbing in an excellent position. While the new bolts provide good protection, the second pitch is still a bit run-out and is only recommended if competent at the grade.

Protection 

Quickdraws, runners, 0.75-4 Camalots. The route has been equipped with new bolts and 2 bolt anchors, to go along with some drilled pitons.


Photos of Pipe Route Slideshow Add Photo
Bill Weiss just a little below the traverse on the...
Bill Weiss just a little below the traverse on the...
Photo by Dancesatmoonrise.
Photo by Dancesatmoonrise.

Comments on Pipe Route Add Comment
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By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 22, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

The climbing on this route could be fun if more people did it and cleared off all the rotting rock. In its current condition, it is runout, loose and I doubt I would ever do it again.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jan 22, 2009

Dan, I have to ask...you rate this climb 5.10b...did you do the second pitch?

While I'd agree that pitch 1 clocks in around 5.10b...pitch 2 is much harder...and WAY more rotten.

josh
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Can't say I had the guts to do the second pitch. I was thoroughly terrified after the first and based my rating on that.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Nov 1, 2009

Right on, Dan.
I was quite confused....
I know I won't do it again!

josh
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Feb 18, 2012

I did the first pitch years ago and foolishly attempted it again today since someone was on Credibility Gap and we wanted to stay in the sun. God awful!
By Gabe De La Rosa
Feb 8, 2013

This route is scary. No questions. Second to third bolt is super run out. Really fun, but be sure you can climb 5.9 until the top. (I only climbed the first pitch.)

But that's not the scary part. I climbed this route today and could not for the life of me find the two anchors at the top. I ended up traversing right to the next route and rapping off a single bolt (which was bomber, but one bolt is never recommended). Sketchy. Would've been fun if it was more protected.
By Kyle Rodman
Mar 31, 2013

One of the loosest routes I've ever done in The Garden (and that was just the first pitch). Could be fun if it got some traffic and had more consistent fixed pro. Trad gear in some of those flakes and pockets feels like it wouldn't even slow you down.