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Routes in West Side
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Credibility Gap S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Green Arrow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Insignificant But There T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kor's Korner T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pipe Dreams T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Pipe Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Practice Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Headwall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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West Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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West Point Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Earl Wiggins, Steve Hong, Ed Webster, Feb 1977 (from Rolofson's guide) |
| Page Views: | 1,067 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Newton on Mar 11, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
P1: Start up a rounded flake lieback until you go up and over a small bulge/roof 15-20 feet up. From there, follow the line of pins, moving up and then right to a belay. The crux comes after the second pin.
P2: ?
The rock on the first pitch is absolutely terrible after pulling the bulge. Even the most delicate of climbers should expect to take falls due to vaporizing holds. Nerve racking. Perhaps with more traffic, the climb will improve.
Rolofson's guide rates this 10 R. I found at least one move that would be 5.11 even if the rock was solid. Dealing with the crumbling holds is a special skill set, but I don't know how it factors into the YDS. The difficulty of this route will change as holds disintegrate and new ones evolve.
P2: ?
The rock on the first pitch is absolutely terrible after pulling the bulge. Even the most delicate of climbers should expect to take falls due to vaporizing holds. Nerve racking. Perhaps with more traffic, the climb will improve.
Rolofson's guide rates this 10 R. I found at least one move that would be 5.11 even if the rock was solid. Dealing with the crumbling holds is a special skill set, but I don't know how it factors into the YDS. The difficulty of this route will change as holds disintegrate and new ones evolve.
Location
Start left of Credibility Gap, below the obvious bulge feature. The first piton should be visible from the ground.
Protection
I protected the lower section with #0.75 and 3 Camalots. The lower section to the first pin could be done without pro, but the move over the bulge involves a large cracked flake that looks like it could detach soon. Above the bulge, solid pins protect the rest of the first pitch.
P2 looks to require a bit more gear.
P2 looks to require a bit more gear.
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