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 ADVANCED
West Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Credibility Gap S 
Green Arrow T 
Insignificant But There T 
Kor's Korner T,S 
Pipe Dreams T,S 
Pipe Route S 
Practice Slab TR 
Short Headwall T 
West Point Crack T 

Pipe Dreams 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Earl Wiggins, Steve Hong, Ed Webster, Feb 1977 (from Rolofson's guide)
Page Views: 206
Submitted By: Newton on Mar 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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From Soft Touch.
Seasonal Closures - some are lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1: Start up a rounded flake lieback until you go up and over a small bulge/roof 15-20 feet up. From there, follow the line of pins, moving up and then right to a belay. The crux comes after the second pin.

P2: ?

The rock on the first pitch is absolutely terrible after pulling the bulge. Even the most delicate of climbers should expect to take falls due to vaporizing holds. Nerve racking. Perhaps with more traffic, the climb will improve.

Rolofson's guide rates this 10 R. I found at least one move that would be 5.11 even if the rock was solid. Dealing with the crumbling holds is a special skill set, but I don't know how it factors into the YDS. The difficulty of this route will change as holds disintegrate and new ones evolve.


Location 

Start left of Credibility Gap, below the obvious bulge feature. The first piton should be visible from the ground.


Protection 

I protected the lower section with #0.75 and 3 Camalots. The lower section to the first pin could be done without pro, but the move over the bulge involves a large cracked flake that looks like it could detach soon. Above the bulge, solid pins protect the rest of the first pitch.

P2 looks to require a bit more gear.



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