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The initial dihedral doesn't require much strength, just good technique and a whole lot of head. The runout could easily turn into a potential groundfall situation if you pass ANY protection opportunities. It is slopier than it first appears, and the crack you think you can see isn't there at all. Traverse to the crack in the headwall to the right and let the big pulls begin. Place pro before attempting to pull over the lip because blowing the crux here would be bad without it. Have fun figuring out the sequence to get over the lip, as the feet are tricky and slopers abound. This is a 5.10a crux, but only if you figure it out; otherwise, expect some mumbling about bags of sand. Once above the headwall, the climbing eases up to around 5.7, providing a nice cool down as you approach the anchors.
Aim for the small dihedral that ends just before reaching the headwall above. You can see the anchor chains on the east-facing bulge at the top of the wall.
Standard trad rack, with nothing larger than a gold camalot needed. Don't pass up any protection opportunities at the start, and once in the dihedral, look to the left for a hidden placement option (use a long runner here). Bring long runners to reduce rope drag at the traverse from the top of the dihedral to the crack in the headwall. 2 chain anchor at the top.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Oct 23, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R
About as scary a lead as I have ever attempted. I passed the one placement that I shouldn't have and my head thanked me as I let my second take the lead beyond the ledge. As Ryan said, "Do not pass up a placement". If you do not find the sequence at the lip excpect a hard 10 move to pop the lip. Very fun route with some cool moves.
Jul 24, 2007
No offense to anyone, but this climb is a piece of crap.