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Black Widow Slab
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Pipe Dreams 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Sangdahl & Baldwin
Page Views: 1,159
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 7, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Chip leading Pipe Dreams #2.
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Description 

This is a very nice sport climb on the North Face of Black Widow. Immediately around the corner from Vaino/BobD's new routes, right of Dracula and the Resinator is this pitch.

The lower section features back-to-back mantles to get established at a no-hands rest. The next section climbs a knobby face to a ledge with an intermediate anchor. Avoid stemming into the adjacent corner in this section. Slightly contrived, and thus the reason this is a 2-star climb and not 3. Unclip the anchor draw and (if you can reach it) the last bolt on the lower section to allieviate rope drag on this wandering pitch. The upper section makes a traverse left to a crack, followed by a tricky traverse back right and eventually into a jug hole (crux). Easier climbing to the top. Bring a 60m rope since this is a fairly long one.


Protection 

14 or so bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There is also an intermediate anchor.



Photos of Pipe Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
John Baldwin leading Pipe Dreams.
John Baldwin leading Pipe Dreams.
John Baldwin on Pipe Dreams. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.
John Baldwin on Pipe Dreams. Photo: Bob Horan Coll...
Chip leading Pipe Dreams #1.
Chip leading Pipe Dreams #1.
Chip leading Pipe Dreams #3.
Chip leading Pipe Dreams #3.
Comments on Pipe Dreams Add Comment
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By J Baldwin
May 1, 2010

To clarify this route description, the second section stays just to the right of the wide crack using pockets and face holds that move upwards and right to finish with a thin crack and the anchors. Also, I did the first free ascent after setting this route up. -John Baldwin.

By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Jul 17, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

The second half of this climb is confusing. From the ledge, I saw three options: 1. climb straight up the bolted face above the ledge; 2. climb the hand crack to the left of the bolts to its own anchor, this is what the guidebook says to do; 3. climb the corner on the right and reach over and clip. The upper part is weird with a lot of options. It might be a better route if it stopped at the first anchor. Also stemming into the corner on the first half is the smart way to climb it, staying on the face the whole time is way contrived. If this route stopped at the first anchor, I still think it would be 12b due to the hard start.