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The Juggernaut Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bat Face S 
Exit the Womb T 
Pebbles and Bam Bam S,TR 
Pipe Dreams S 
Seem to Seam S,TR 
Slab Happy TR 
Super Conductor S 
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Pipe Dreams 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 455
Submitted By: Darin Lang on May 27, 2002

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This is on the lower tier of the far left side of the Juggernaut area, located just around the corner (if approaching from Bat Face) just left of an arete, about in line with the "pointy" pine tree on the left side of the photo below. Ascend slightly overhanging rock past three bolts to the top of the lower tier. I couldn't find an anchor on the top after a very brief inspection, and so I lowered off the third bolt. YMMV.

This seemed pretty hard for a 5.10, albeit for only two moves. Then again, I'm pretty weak. The crux is clipping the second bolt while hanging off a "the clock is ticking" rounded cobble. It is easier from the second bolt to the top.


3 QDs.

Comments on Pipe Dreams Add Comment
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By Keen Butterworth
From: Boulder
Aug 8, 2006

The first bolt is missing its nut and hanger.
By Tom Hanson
Mar 20, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A cobble has broken off and now this line may be a bit more difficult. I suggest 11a for the difficulty.
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