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 ADVANCED
Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bee Line T 
Boss Man, The T 
Chips Block T 
Edge of Night T 
Ending Crack T 
Glory Days S 
Half Ascent T 
Pipe Cleaner T 
Roadside Cracks T 
Tree Root T 
Wasp/The Sting, The T 
White Spider, The T 

Pipe Cleaner 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown (mid-60s)
Page Views: 2,294
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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My carabiner won't fit on this BIG bolt next to Pi...

Description 

Pipe Cleaner follows the third most-obvious line on the wall (in this case, left of Ending Crack). The route follows an undulating crack which occasionally masquerades as a shallow corner. The crack ranges from a few millimeters wide to about 8 inches (although no gear over 3-inches is absolutely necessary). The gear is good and the climbing is fairly sustained. Unlike Ending Crack, which has abundant face holds on either side, this route forces you to use the crack--expect plenty of fist jamming and even a little off-width climbing.

The top of the route features a bolted anchor--2 glued-in eye-bolts and a Fixe Triplex. It takes two ropes to reach the ground.

The most unusual feature of this route is that it seldom has any dry ground beneath it. This means that you will likely have to build a hanging belay in a large hole about 8 feet above the water. Keeping the rope dry is an excellent test of your rope management skills. When you pull the rappel lines, one of your ropes is surely getting wet.

Though not truly multi-pitch, I find the climbing on this route to be more enjoyable than Tree Route.

Protection 

Gear: small to 4"

Fixed anchor on top.


Photos of Pipe Cleaner Slideshow Add Photo
Michael McKay climbs the first half of Pipe Cleaner at Sespe Gorge.
Michael McKay climbs the first half of Pipe Cleane...
Cory on repel, Pipe cleaner
Cory on repel, Pipe cleaner
Pipe Cleaner (5.6) is located just right of the platform. Easily done in 1 loooong pitch. Don't forget to bring 2 ropes for rappin'.
BETA PHOTO: Pipe Cleaner (5.6) is located just right of the pl...
David Hoffberg demonstrates the water start, an often necessary hanging belay at the start of Pipe Cleaner.
David Hoffberg demonstrates the water start, an of...
Though it is possible to climb Pipe Cleaner as one VERY long pitch, I find it preferable to climb it as 2 pitches.  There is a comfortable belay ledge at mid-height that offers an exceptional position on the wall. <br /> <br />In this photo, Michael & Marina McKay enjoy the view from the belay ledge atop the first pitch of Pipe Cleaner.
Though it is possible to climb Pipe Cleaner as one...
Becca moving on up
Becca moving on up

Comments on Pipe Cleaner Add Comment
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By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Feb 26, 2006

Descend the gully if you want to keep your rope dry.
By Mtnfly
From: El Segundo, Ca
Sep 9, 2011

I saw the same chalk mark today. It was not there 3 months ago. Route looked ok, I was wondering the same things????