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Totem-Proto Area
Routes Sorted
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Pipe Bomb 
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Unsorted Routes:

Pipe Bomb 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: David Sampson and Arjun Heimsath
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: arjunmh on Apr 9, 2013
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DAS barely visible on the upper, extremely committ...

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Description 

Start in the north facing crack system between the Protean Catch arete and the Pipe Cleaner corner and head up towards the prominent roof and bulge of Protean Catch. Cross left beneath the arete and bolte and get into a chossy and scary corner that we need to clean more. This corner leads to a committing though well protected southeast facing face with delicate moves that leads to the top and the same anchors as used for the above two climbs. Certainly not for the timid.

Two bolt anchor with quick links and chain links -- same anchors as for Pipe Cleaner.


Location 

Upslope of Proto Pipe, between the above mentioned climbs and obvious from the photo.


Protection 

All trad, double rack, some nuts, and a hell of a lot of caution to avoid the loose rock.



Photos of Pipe Bomb Slideshow Add Photo
DAS in the scary and loose corner after crossing under the Protean Catch arete and bolt on the FA.
DAS in the scary and loose corner after crossing u...
DAS on the FA. Rope shows this line, the bottom bolt of Protean is on the left and the Pipe Cleaner corner is on the right.
DAS on the FA. Rope shows this line, the bottom bo...
DAS on the FA in the lower crack system.
DAS on the FA in the lower crack system.
Comments on Pipe Bomb Add Comment
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By David Arthur Sampson
Apr 10, 2013

I rated this climb as a "bomb" because of the scary loose rock. If we get back to clean it I will likely give it a higher rating because it was fun and exposed.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 10, 2013

Agreed! I am assuming that we'll clean it up better next time in there, in which case hopefully it'll be better than a bomb!! May need a crowbar, though, or a real pipe bomb. Hence the name.