This historic route was the first line up Monkey Face. It begins on the southeast side of the tower.
Pitch 1: 5.6 Scramble up a series of ledges to a ramp up and right to a vertical crack that takes you to the notch formed between the main buttress and Monkey face. Once at the notch turn the corner and climb up the face using traditional pro, bolts, and fixed pins. Belay at the left of two anchors on a long ledge.
Pitch 2: C0 Move up an overhanging red face on a bolt ladder into the "monkey's mouth." Belay from the unique angle-iron anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.7 Move the belay to the east edge of the cave (mouth). Reach out of the cave and move straight up the face for 25 feet on bolts to a ledge with chains. This classic pitch is short but airy. The opening moves have been called "panic point" due to the noticeable exposure.
Pitch 4: 5.5 Ascend the boulder at the belay and move northward. Step across a small trough and head for the a bolted anchor on the east side of the summit at a ledge.
From here is a 4th class jaunt to the true summit. Be sure to take in the scenery and take pics for your REI catalog cover shot.
Scramble or take a short rappel back to the top of the 3rd pitch. Another short single rope rap takes you back to the cave (these top 2 raps can be difficult to pull). From the cave you have several options:
1. Take the stunning and free hanging 2 full 60m rope rappel from the east edge of the cave to 3rd class below. This is the highlight of the route for many and allows you to also contemplate the insane difficulty of Just Do It. After this double rope rap you can circle back west to the base of the variation or continue up and over the top of the main buttress on the trail.
2. Take the tyrolean traverse back to the main buttress. (Requires that you fixed a second rope and rapped in from main buttress onto first pitch, trailed rope up to the cave, and know how to actually do a tyrolean (beyond the scope of this description).
3. Rap the route (not recommended but possible with single 60m)
All anchors are fat bolts or chains.
-Single set of cams #.75-#3 camalot
- Long slings and 4-5 quickdraws
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 27, 2006
For Tyrolean Traverse:
-Fix rope at anchors on main buttress and do a single rope rappel into the notch.
-Continue up first pitch as Pioneer route on separate rope. When at the Monkey's mouth pull fixed rope tight and fix it also to the anchors in the mouth.
-First traverser can then use ascenders to jug back across gap on fixed line while being belayed from mouth. Be sure to put the loose end of the fixed line through the anchor in the mouth and tag it across.
-Once the first traverser has made the gap he/she pulls the tagged line taunt so that both its ends are fixed. This rope will now be only running through the anchor in the mouth but not fixed to it.
-Now the 2nd climber can do the traverse. Once they are to the main buttress the rope may be untied and pulled through the monkey mouth anchor cleanly.
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 7, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Pitches 3 and 4 can easily be combined.
We ran into a spot of trouble on the rap off of this today. The wind blew one of our ropes over to the other side of the notch, where it became caught. I won't go into the details of our near-epic getting it out, but the end result was that I had to rap down the West side of the Monkey.
Apr 20, 2010
Common advice is to french free the bolt ladder on quickdraws. This works fine, but is strenuous.
Make sure that both partners are able to do this or bring ascenders for the second.
From: Concord, MA
Jan 4, 2011
I believe the solo speed record for the pioneer route is currently 3m30sec. Time starts at the beginning of the fourth class, ends at the summit. GET IT!
From: Concord, MA
Sep 13, 2011
Updated speed record- 3 minutes 25 seconds by Brad Gobright
|By Richard Shore|
Apr 22, 2013
Mostly good 3/8" bolts on the bolt ladder pitch. Some are homemade hangers, some odd (but fat!) bolts; I pushed two of the loose rawls back in their holes which were sticking out ~1". Not much to worry about if leading since there are TONS of bolts, but may be a cause for concern if you solo the route with daisies like I did. Don't pull outward!
|By Alex Quitiquit|
From: Salt Lake City
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Nice work on the speed record! It took me about 4 minutes alone to lob my way up the bolt ladder Baguette-freeing on belay.
|By Noah C|
Oct 11, 2013
Both Summitpost and the new Falcon guide say a double rope is mandatory for rappel, but this page mentions a single rope rappel. Is it possible to rap with a single 60m or 70m?
|By another Chad|
Oct 12, 2013
"Both Summitpost and the new Falcon guide say a double rope is mandatory for rappel, but this page mentions a single rope rappel. Is it possible to rap with a single 60m or 70m?"
Rappelling from the mouth to Bohn Street seems like an exercise in frustration. Not to mention you'd annoy the group that would invariably be on the bolt ladder.
As Watts puts it: "Two ropes are mandatory on the descent." page 222
From: Bozeman, MT
May 24, 2014
It appears as of 5/19/2014 that a bolt has blown on the bolt ladder just below the small roof. This turns what should be a totally Frenchable ladder into one requiring a sketchy aid move to clip. Bring aiders or a double length and single length runner (as well as your balance skills) for steps to make this reach.
|By Kevin Peter|
Jun 2, 2014
The missing bolt on the ladder can by bypassed by top stepping in aiders. Get your fifi in high and push hard. My waist was at or above the bolt and it was a long reach to the next one, but manageable. The french free beta may not be possible until the missing bolt is replaced.
From: Medford, OR
Jul 19, 2014
Missing bolt on ladder has been replaced.