Area is known to be private property but climbers have typically been welcome as long as they respect the place. There are no posted signs blocking access that I've seen.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Pioneer rocks is a shady climb just outside Morgantown near Decker Creek. It is a small area of sandstone faces best suited for top roping. Locals know about this area, mainly because it is close to town and an easy jaunt if you must get in a climb but don't have time to drive to Cooper's Rock. I've yet to run into other people there, however.
The main area consists of a few moderately difficult routes with small fingerholes and rounded edgy foot holds. A nice dihedral and chimney grace the right end of the main face. Finding a good anchor to allow you to hit a few different lines is the biggest challenge. You'll need a few long lengths of webbing (I take a 40' and 50'). I'm sure someone has come up with catchy climby names for these routes, but since I'm still searching for anything in print about this area, I won't venture to rename any of them. I would estimate difficulty in the range of 5.5 for the most easily anchored spot (you'll know it when you get to the top) and around 5.9 to 5.10 for the left face of the dihedral. Any additional information from more seasoned veterans would be great.
Getting There
Take highway 7 out of Morgantown, through Sabraton. You'll go under I-68 and after about 3 miles you'll pass Tyrone Road on your left and a small store called (I believe) Pioneer Market. Just past the market on your right is a small pull-off. Park here. Now walk further on down the road about 100 yards and the cliffs are on your left. Beware, there are a lot of thorny bushes between you and the rock, pants aren't a bad idea. The approach to the top is easy to find beginning at the left end of the face.
My friends where the other day and met the landowner. She said she has to go up their at least once a week and pick up all the trash that all the climbers leave behind. She said if she has to keep doing trash cleanup we would lose access to pioneer rocks. Please pack out your trash and if you find someone elses trash carry it out with you.
I have bouldered here in the past and access is definitely sensitive. Be aware of hunting season, pack out trash and keep a low profile. I have heard of landowner encounters that were less than desirable.
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