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Pins For Mountaineering?
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By Chris90
From Unity, Maine
Jun 2, 2011

I have heard it is a good idea to add a few pins to your rack for winter mountaineering. How many and of what variety would yall recommend? This would be in addition to stoppers, screws, etc


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By Erik W
From Bay Area, CA
Jun 2, 2011
North face of Ama Dablam - taken on approach to Kongma La.

I've never brought them mountaineering, but bring them religiously on mixed alpine routes. Anyway, I usually bring anywhere from 3-5 pins, depending on terrain/rock.... bugaboos and knifeblades being the mainstay, maybe 1-2 lost arrows, maybe a baby angle in place of the larger LA. A deftly swung pick can often weld a small stopper in a placement for an LA or baby angle, so maybe just bring a bugaboo or knifeblade, but again for general mountaineering I don't see the weight justification.

HTH.


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By Jon H
From Boulder
Jun 2, 2011
At the matching crux

Same as above, but I don't bother with lost arrows. Too heavy. You can bash a nut into the same crevice that would fit a LA.


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By Buff Johnson
Jun 5, 2011
smiley face

check out ushba's titaniums, generally carry 4-6; and 3 blades. Really ideal for those dime-thin seams.


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By Erik W
From Bay Area, CA
Jun 5, 2011
North face of Ama Dablam - taken on approach to Kongma La.

Mark Nelson wrote:
check out ushba's titaniums, generally carry 4-6; and 3 blades. Really ideal for those dime-thin seams.


Mark, do you regularly climb with the Ushba pins? How reuseable are they? I used a couple ti pins about 15yrs ago (not Ushba) and those suckers were like the soft steel pins of yesteryear.... meaning they got welded in place easily, or only had a handful of placements in their lifespan because of the amount of abuse it took to get them out.


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By Wyatt H
From Casper, Wy
Jun 5, 2011

NWAlpine has some russian ones. Not sure if they're from Ushba or not.

Titanium Pins and Screws

The disclaimer at the bottom is interesting.


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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Sep 5, 2011
perfect seam

that the most awesome disclaimer ever. long live the federation


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