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Pins For Mountaineering?

Original Post
Chris90 · · Unity, Maine · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

I have heard it is a good idea to add a few pins to your rack for winter mountaineering. How many and of what variety would yall recommend? This would be in addition to stoppers, screws, etc

Erik W · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 280

I've never brought them mountaineering, but bring them religiously on mixed alpine routes. Anyway, I usually bring anywhere from 3-5 pins, depending on terrain/rock.... bugaboos and knifeblades being the mainstay, maybe 1-2 lost arrows, maybe a baby angle in place of the larger LA. A deftly swung pick can often weld a small stopper in a placement for an LA or baby angle, so maybe just bring a bugaboo or knifeblade, but again for general mountaineering I don't see the weight justification.

HTH.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Same as above, but I don't bother with lost arrows. Too heavy. You can bash a nut into the same crevice that would fit a LA.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

check out ushba's titaniums, generally carry 4-6; and 3 blades. Really ideal for those dime-thin seams.

Erik W · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 280
Mark Nelson wrote:check out ushba's titaniums, generally carry 4-6; and 3 blades. Really ideal for those dime-thin seams.
Mark, do you regularly climb with the Ushba pins? How reuseable are they? I used a couple ti pins about 15yrs ago (not Ushba) and those suckers were like the soft steel pins of yesteryear.... meaning they got welded in place easily, or only had a handful of placements in their lifespan because of the amount of abuse it took to get them out.
Wyatt H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 6

NWAlpine has some russian ones. Not sure if they're from Ushba or not.

Titanium Pins and Screws

The disclaimer at the bottom is interesting.

fat cow · · St. Paul, MN · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

that the most awesome disclaimer ever. long live the federation

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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