Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer
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Delicate slab moves up horizontal edges, lead to flaring shallow butt-cracks followed by a slopey chicken-head to the crux just before the roof. From there the climbing eases up a bit until another 11 slab move around the last bolt. Anchors will be up and left of the route. If you are finding the slab to be too much for your tastes you can bail to the left and finish on Victory Gardens (5.10) which will take you pretty much straight to the anchors.
Upper West face just down canyon from a large chimney and Wheels on Fire, directly below Fallen Arches.
4 draws for bolts. Cams up to .75. Anchor w/ 2 bolts & chains just to the left of the route (though Ataché lockers won't fit through the links FWIW).
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|By Pete Spri|
Jun 18, 2011
TR'd this for the first time today. Quality climb.
The last bolt seems very strangely positioned. Going straight through it would be a hard 11 or 12. If you go left you hit some grooves (to me, Victory Gardens is further Left than this, around a corner) or if you go right you could end up with perhaps a more contrived face move or 2. The bolt doesn't really set you up for where the route goes... it's sort of in no-mans land, leaving it up to you to choose.
I'd like to lead this one next time.
|By Alex Quitiquit|
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Btw... Not 140 feet - it's more like 85 feet, maybe.
|By Todd Green|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 31, 2012
The 140' is from the topo in the Ruckman guide, but thinking about it, there is no way it is that long or a 70m wouldn't reach. Fixed the description.