The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife:
* From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999) * From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead) * Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214) * Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation.
The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect.
Signage has been posted at strategic locations.
Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both.
Pinnacles is a Bay Area Climber's nightmare or savior, depending one's interest. Its close proximity to the South Bay and moderate weather during the Winter months make it very popular with the Bay Area climbing community, but at the same time the area is known for its "less than granite quality" rock. Some despise its chossy character, others revel in its history of adventure and "ground up" ethic.
As a former haunt of some of Yosemite's children of the Golden Age of climbing, the names of Roper, Bridwell, Bates are associated with this area. It has bolt-protected face climbs due to the lack of good cracks, as well as more traditional climbs.
An Intro to the Pinnacles
by Steven Dalleske
Tap tap tap, tap tap tap, I can always tell when an experienced Pinnacles climber is in the area. The fact is you can usually hear them long before you see them. Tapping the holds with our knuckles is just one of the unique techniques we have learned to rely on over the years of scrambling across this unique rock. For me, the farther I am from my last protection the more I'm tapping and if I'm really wigging out you'll see me start kicking at the foot holds too. What I'm doing is listening for a nice sharp report from the knob or cobble in question. Something that will let me know how well it's attached to the cliff and how much I want to rely on it. A dull or hollow sound above a fall you're not interested in taking and you should be looking for alternatives. If there are no viable alternatives, its time to decide how bad you want the route and if you decide to push on you'll, at the least, have a better understanding what your getting into. Keep in mind, though, that if you seriously tried to avoid all the loose rock at the Pinns, you're route selection would be seriously limited if not non-existent. Climbing the Pinnacles rock is an art, it's something that takes an acquired taste to really appreciate, but once mastered it's an art that will give you new confidence when visiting other more sound climbing areas.
Another good habit to adopt when negotiating the minefields that are the Pinnacles rock is to try to avoid stepping on the knobs. This is because, when a weighted knob pops, under your foot you'll be at the end of your rope or bouncing off a ledge before you know it. Consequently, a seasoned Pinn-head will, given the opportunity, consciously avoid using the knobs for footholds and instead seek features in the matrix to find a purchase for the foot. The matrix being like a gritty mortar that holds the cobbles in place tends to crumble rather than pop as the knobs do and this can, in some cases, give you the extra second needed to make a decision and hopefully an escape. Eventually you'll find yourself spreading your weight out on the rock, moving like a cat, taking full advantage of stances, exploring and carefully planning your sequences, appreciating a sound bolt more than ever before, clipping anchors with a relief that overwhelms and if you can learn love this careful style of climbing, you've become a true Pinn-head.
Because of the unique rock here, soloing and bouldering at the Pinns, though not unheard of, is considered foolhardy, if not suicidal. Ironically, most of the moderate routes here have serious run outs on them which, coupled with our not so lovable rock makes even the easiest route a serious endeavor. You must always be conscious of your potential falls, this is not a place to haphazardly romp around 20' out from the last bolt. Since the knobs pop on all routes equally, you are more likely to get hurt on something easy like the Portent, 5.6 with it's 20' to 30' run outs than something a little harder like Cantaloupe Death, 5.10c which has mere 6' to 8' run outs. In most cases the easier routes were put up 30, 40 or even 50 years ago in a bygone time when climbing was a more dangerous animal, commitment was at a premium and protection was sub standard by modern ideals. Consequently if you are not already familiar with the rock here, I don't consider the Pinnacles a great place to teach yourself leading. Over the last decade the bolts on most of the more popular routes have been brought up to modern standards, but the run outs, long and true, are and always will remain.
Depending on whether one is going to the more popular East District or the West District will dictate how to get there.
For the East District, go South on 101 to Hwy 25 to Hollister. Go South out of Hollister for several miles until you reach the turn off for Pinnacles National Monument. Go past the campground and entrance station (fee) and continue to where you can go left over the bridge instead of to the Chalone Picnic area. Park at the end of the road, unless the small lot is full. On occasion if you arrive late you may need to take the shuttle in from the lower parking lot.
Two magnificent pitches of wild stemming up a spooky black groove on the Balconies. Pitch one involves steep knob climbing between sometimes sparsely-placed bolts. An occasional knob can be tied off, but the steep crux comes between a gap in protection opportunities. Pitch 2 requires more hip-cramping stemming up the water-hardened chute. This pitch is not to be missed. At the time of this writing, not all bolts are inspiring, and some loose rock is present....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Sweet is mountain project! Psyched to be signed up. Watching olympic athletes just inspires to get stronger and more fit. Perfect motivator for a climber. Upon some research of Castle rock and Pinnacles, both within range of Santa Cruz, its difficult to be encouraged or discouraged. The descriptions range from fun and challenging to dangerous and questionable. Love to hear more about these areas.