Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975.
Page Views: 1,982 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 12, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


11 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Parking has reopened DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start below a 10'-high pointed pinnacle of rock at the same place where the route Left Edge begins.This is about 20' right of Prelude to King Kong and is directly below the right side of the Super Squeeze alcove and the start of The Umph Slot.

The route climbs a finger, hand, and fist crack just right of the pinnacle.

Climb up to the right of the pinnacle, then work up the finger crack while stemming as high as possible off the pinnacle. Step right to the crack and make difficult moves as the crack widens to hand and fist size.

Above, you have several choices for a belay:

1. Continue straight up and belay and the start of The Umph Slot.

2. Continue up and left and climb a slab to the belay on Super Squeeze.

3. Traverse left and belay at the start of Gorilla's Delight.

Continue with any of these routes, or rap 80' from the anchor on Super Squeeze.

If you chose option #3 for the belay, you can also finish on Left Edge.

It may also be possible to exit right and continue on The Owl.

Rossiter's guidebook also shows a 10a variation using a crack left of the finger crack.

Worthwhile if you're looking for a short, well-protected harder start to any of the above routes.

Protection Suggest change

Small wired nuts to #3 Camalot. Aliens (green to orange) were very useful.

Photos

- No Photos -
loading