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DescriptionRoughly, Pinnacle Valley lies west of the Sandia Crest between The Needle to the north and Chimney Canyon to the south. Established climbing areas within Pinnacle Valley include from north to south: The Anvil, Wildflower Wall, The Watchtower, The Tombstone, and The Knifeblade. Many of the climbing areas are on west facing rock and so tend to be shady until mid-day. Getting ThereIn most cases, the shortest approach begins by heading north from the Crest parking lot and communication towers along the North Crest Trail. Another beginning is at a dirt pullover on the east side of the highway just below the tower complex, then head up hill to the North Crest Trail. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pinnacle Valley:
West Face Traverse 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches Tombstone
Red sky at morning 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 200 feet Santa Maria
Caonabo 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 100 feet Santa Maria
West Face Direct 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 250 feet Tombstone
Fat Lip 5.8+ PG13 Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200 feet Santa Maria
Seventh Sojourn 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 340 feet WatchTower
Good to the Last Drop 5.9+ Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Hidden Wall
Juan de la Cosa 5.10a Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200 feet Santa Maria
Wildflower 5.10a Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450 feet Wildflower Wall
Hammer Time 5.10b Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 190 feet, Grade II The Anvil
Excalibur 5.10d Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 340 feet WatchTower
Alchemy 5.11a Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet WatchTower
Sister Moon 5.11b R Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II Wildflower Wall
Dancing on the Moon 5.11c/d PG13 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 115 feet The Knifeblade
Watchman's Secret 5.12a PG13 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 320 feet, Grade II WatchTower
Brother Wolf 5.12a/b Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Wildflower Wall
Cry for Merlin 5.12b PG13 Trad, Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II WatchTower
The Sword In The Stone (Clarent) 5.12 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II WatchTower
Crybaby 5.12+ Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet WatchTower
Featured Route For Pinnacle Valley
The Keep 5.9 NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : The Keep
The climb is the large pinnacle on the lower part of the Keep Ridge. Climb the North face on the west side up a slightly overhanging hand crack. The crux is leaving the hand crack to a finger crack/mantel. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM |