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Huntington Ravine
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Central Gully 
Central Gully - Rock Climb 
Damnation Gully 
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Pinnacle Gully 
Yale Gully 

Pinnacle Gully 

WI3

   
Type: Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus: WI3 [details]
FA: Samuel A Scoville & Julian Whittlesey 2/8/1930
Page Views: 12,114
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 25, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: 11/29/12 The climb without snow... awesome. Firs...

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Description 

Overall an amazing route in a great location. Pretty straightforward, but remote - so self-reliance is key.


Location 

To the left of the low-angle Central Gully and just to the right of Pinnacle Buttress.


Protection 

Screws - possibly some rock gear for belays (there is fixed gear easily found on both sides of the gully at 60m rope lengths)



Photos of Pinnacle Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Working up P1.
Working up P1.
Thin ice after warm week. Nov. 11th 2013. Looking up at pitch one.
Thin ice after warm week. Nov. 11th 2013. Looking ...
The snowy start to the second pitch
The snowy start to the second pitch
Base of the Gully
Base of the Gully
The start of Pinnacle Gully
The start of Pinnacle Gully
Top of the climb.
Top of the climb.
Pinnacle on the left, Central on the right
BETA PHOTO: Pinnacle on the left, Central on the right
Matt Ritter the crux pitch
Matt Ritter the crux pitch
A group of climbers makes their wat up Huntingtons Ravine, Pinnacle Gully in the background 2011
A group of climbers makes their wat up Huntingtons...
Halfway up the first pitch
Halfway up the first pitch
Approaching the base, photo by Arthur Kehas.
Approaching the base, photo by Arthur Kehas.
Matt Ritter on the crux
Matt Ritter on the crux
Comments on Pinnacle Gully Add Comment
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By Ian Wolfe
From: Fayetteville, NC
Apr 6, 2010
rating: WI3

Climbed the route Sunday, 4 April 2010. The right half of the climb was a raging torrent. The left half, was soft and wet, but screws held solid and the sticks were swing and forget. I brought with me a .5 and .75 camalot and a set of nuts, and was glad to have them.

We did the route in 4 pitches, with the 2nd and 4th being primarily snow. The 3rd, though not as difficult as the 1st pitch, was my favorite. The gully narrows to a couple meters across, the pinnacle pushes rock over your head, the waterfall was running down the right half. I could literally see water rushing under the ice I was kicking in to, and the ribbon of ice we were climbing was only about a meter wide! Wild!

I dropped my pack at the Alpine Garden, ran up and tagged the top 30 minutes later, and then returned to my pack to strap on the skis we had carried up with us. We skid down Tuckerman's and enjoyed a Hefe.

Glorious.

By Paul Rago
Mar 21, 2011

i've been up this route twice and could only find fixed gear at the top of p1. There were two spots that had pins here, both on the overhanging wall: next to your head and down below by the snow. But the latter was snow covered and difficult to find. There was a pin near the end of p3 where a 0.5-0.75 C4 would also fit.

By Ben Brotelho
From: Albany, NY
Dec 5, 2012

Any word on the condition of the Gully lately? NEice is slow to respond to inquiries...planning a trip in 2 weeks!