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The Brain
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Brain Trust 
Frontal Lobe Traverse 
Half a Brain 
Kids Rock 
Kids Traverse 
Pinky and the Brain 

Pinky and the Brain 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V2+ Font: 5+ [details]
FA: 
Season: Fall thru Spring
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Davis13au on Dec 15, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Jon getting started on Pinky.

Description 

Not sure who climbed here first but credit to Hank Rankin for making this one known and naming it. It's a sit start on some tough crimpers that moves up and to the right. You get out from under the slight overhang onto some slippery crimpers on the top side (the brain part). Foot work is important to get out and over. The crux is probably down low but the crimpers on top are tough too.


Location 

Look in the "brainiest" part. The sit start is chalked up pretty good right now but it starts to the left of the pine tree that is close to the rock as you face it.


Protection 

Pad would be good but watch out for the pine tree.



Photos of Pinky and the Brain Slideshow Add Photo
Closer shot of some of the holds.  The brainy crimps on top are pretty slick.
BETA PHOTO: Closer shot of some of the holds. The brainy crim...
Sit start low and left then work right and up to the brain.
BETA PHOTO: Sit start low and left then work right and up to t...
One of the lower holds on Pinky and the Brain
One of the lower holds on Pinky and the Brain
topping Pinky
topping Pinky
Comments on Pinky and the Brain Add Comment
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By Hank Rankin
Dec 7, 2010

this is V3-4

By s f
From: GA/CO
Dec 8, 2010
rating: V2 5+

This is one of the most obvious and semi-worthwhile problems at Juliette. I climbed it circa 2005 and thought it was V2 (+1 for full-on 95/95 mid-GA heat/humidity). Since then I suppose the inflation rate has dimished the value of the V.

By Davis13au
Dec 10, 2010

SF, got any more info about this route or any others? I didn't find this place till 2006. There's not much to it but here and Hitchiti is about it for trying to stay in shape in Macon. I wish I had more info on FAs, grades, or route names just to give credit where it's due. Thanks.

By s f
From: GA/CO
Dec 16, 2010
rating: V2 5+

No info really... I just explored around by myself a few times and climbed the more obvious and aesthetic lines. Folks have been going back there for many years, so it is safe to assume that anything worth "claiming" was sent long ago. It is easy to feel like a mega-FA'ist at a place like this because it sees little traffic and few repeat visits. Sorry for the wise ass grade remarks, but I am using Rocktown or the like as a benchmark. There is no shame in calling Veasy "Veasy", especially if it is fun!