Hike up the White Rot Gully and descend in to the main Aeolian Wall drainage to the mouth Willy's Couloir. Proceed up into the large gully and aim for the first recess on the right. Pink Tornado Left starts on the main wall that is behind the right side of a 200 foot tall white triangular flake.
Once on the Sherwood Forest ledges you can rappel Dogma with a single 70m rope. Or you can climb another route (ie., Gwondonna Land Boogie or Scotty) up to summit Mount Wilson. This would make for a climb with one of the greatest elevation gains in the park.
From the base of the route it is unnecessary to hike back up to the White Rot Gully. Walk down to the lowest point of the Aeolian Wall gully where further progress is cliffed out by waterfalls. Two rappels with a single 60m rope get you down. This is much easier than downclimbing the White Rot.
Pink Tornado Left climbs out of Willy's Couloir and up to Sherwood Forest below the Horseshoe Wall on Mount Wilson.
Pitch 1, 200 feet, 5.9+ Ascend the flake system until it taps out about halfway up. Traverse left into the main corner system and continue up to a niche between the large slab and the main wall. Belay from the rappel tree.
Pitch 2, 160 feet, 5.9 Return to the main wall and climb the pleasing crack to just below the roof. Hang from old two bolts and belay. Anchor can be supplemented with a #2 Camalot.
Pitch 3, 80 feet, 5.8 Slide up the notch in the roof. Belay from bolts on your left or head up and right a short distance and build a belay at the base of a left-facing corner on a large ledge.
Pitch 4, 150 feet, 5.7 Climb the left-facing corner.
Pitch 5, 110 feet, 5.7 Continue climbing the left-facing corner to the large ledge.
Pitch 6, 50 feet, Class 3 Hike to the base of the wall below another left-facing corner system.
Pitch 7, 190 feet, 5.9 Climb the sustained left-facing red corner to a bolted anchor on the left.
Pitch 8, 60 feet, 5.7 Pull a few short moves on to a ledge. Class 3 and build anchor where convenient. Hike into the Sherwood Forest.
Standard rack up to a single #4 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Pink Tornado Left. Route marked.
BETA PHOTO: you'll need to descend some slabs before heading u...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1. Pink Tornado Left.
BETA PHOTO: Lower route.
Brett cruises p2.
Plaque says "1-15-76 Station".
Dow coming up P2
looking back to the valley from the tunnel through...
good rock on P5
Jonny casts off on p3.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 7, 190 feet, 5.9
BETA PHOTO: the approach trail passes through a tunnel
John on Pink Tornado Left, p1. Photo by Brett Barr...
Dow past the crux on P1
great views from the P3 belay
BETA PHOTO: Dow about to exit the wide chimney on P3
about to start the steep ascent to the base of the...
BETA PHOTO: the 3rd class slab followed by a 5th class bushwha...
brief pause for a photo op
looking over to Resolution Arete
|By John Hegyes|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 10, 2009
My description describes pitch 1 as going up the right side of the initial white triangular slab at 5.9+. This was how pitch 1 was listed in the Handren guide. Referring to Urioste's Red Book, it can be seen that the original pitch 1 ascended the left side of the white slab at 5.7.
I found the right side very enjoyable and worthwhile; I have not climbed the left side...
|By Larry DeAngelo|
Apr 10, 2009
The left side is not particularly enjoyable.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 20, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
On pitch 1, if you step left a short distance up (near a bush out of the chimney) there is a laser cut finger crack in a corner - best pitch on the route. Rest was OK to Sherwood forest. We continued on to the upper wall as that was our goal so might have not been paying much attention or savoring this route as much as we should have.
Nov 10, 2010
Thanks to whoever wrote me (larry?). the Brock guide has P.T. left in totally the wrong spot. Should you end up on the left side of the flake, you can do the following:
I had doubles from .3 to #2 camalot and 1 #3 and #4. i woudl want doubles to #4, since the climbig is easy but can be somewhat runout with a skeletal rack and there are some very long pitches.
P1. Go up to the climbers'-left base of the big pyramid flake. There is a grayish sorta water groove, then a small tree, leading into a chimney which faces left. Climb this (5.9?) past one ledge to a second ledge which has some trees for an anchor.
P2. Go into the chimney for maybe 20-30 feet, then go up an easy hand crack that goes up and slightly left of the chimney. This will lead you up and rightward to the top of the formation to a big flat spot with trees for pro. 5.7 or 5.8
P3. Go up and slightly right along more cracks (some munge near the start) and eventually you will get to the base of a nice handcrack that goes through a dark section. 5.9
P4 Go up the handcrack, clip the station, fire the roof (easy) and go to a bolted stance.
then you basically go straight up the left-facing corner. After another pitch or two, the thing appears to turn into an enormous terrifying maw of a chimney...but sweat not, stemming the otuside will lead you to excellent pro, cool positions and not too many difficulties.
From: Las Vegas
Apr 12, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
An extra #4 or #5 wouldn't go unused if you brought it. Dogma is the ticket for descending this line. When you get back to your packs, you can avoid going back up into the White Rot gully by heading down and skier's left. On the south side of the wall that separates you from the White Rot gully are two single raps that get you back to the approach trail.