Pink Tornado Left 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Don Gieseck, Geoff Conley 1975 |
| Submitted By: | John Hegyes on Apr 9, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Pink Tornado Left. Route marked.
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Location Hike up the White Rot Gully and descend in to the main Aeolian Wall drainage to the mouth Willy's Couloir. Proceed up into the large gully and aim for the first recess on the right. Pink Tornado Left starts on the main wall that is behind the right side of a 200 foot tall white triangular flake.
Once on the Sherwood Forest ledges you can rappel Dogma with a single 70m rope. Or you can climb another route (ie., Gwondonna Land Boogie or Scotty) up to summit Mount Wilson. This would make for a climb with one of the greatest elevation gains in the park.
From the base of the route it is unnecessary to hike back up to the White Rot Gully. Walk down to the lowest point of the Aeolian Wall gully where further progress is cliffed out by waterfalls. Two rappels with a single 60m rope get you down. This is much easier than downclimbing the White Rot.
Description Pink Tornado Left climbs out of Willy's Couloir and up to Sherwood Forest below the Horseshoe Wall on Mount Wilson.
Pitch 1, 200 feet, 5.9+ Ascend the flake system until it taps out about halfway up. Traverse left into the main corner system and continue up to a niche between the large slab and the main wall. Belay from the rappel tree.
Pitch 2, 160 feet, 5.9 Return to the main wall and climb the pleasing crack to just below the roof. Hang from old two bolts and belay. Anchor can be supplemented with a #2 Camalot.
Pitch 3, 80 feet, 5.8 Slide up the notch in the roof. Belay from bolts on your left or head up and right a short distance and build a belay at the base of a left-facing corner on a large ledge.
Pitch 4, 150 feet, 5.7 Climb the left-facing corner.
Pitch 5, 110 feet, 5.7 Continue climbing the left-facing corner to the large ledge.
Pitch 6, 50 feet, Class 3 Hike to the base of the wall below another left-facing corner system.
Pitch 7, 190 feet, 5.9 Climb the sustained left-facing red corner to a bolted anchor on the left.
Pitch 8, 60 feet, 5.7 Pull a few short moves on to a ledge. Class 3 and build anchor where convenient. Hike into the Sherwood Forest.
Protection Standard rack up to a single #4 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Lower route.
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1. Pink Tornado Left.
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Brett cruises p2.
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P2 anchor.
Plaque says "1-15-76 Station".
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Jonny casts off on p3.
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 7, 190 feet, 5.9
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John on Pink Tornado Left, p1. Photo by Brett Barr...
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morning light on Mt Wilson
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about to start the steep ascent to the base of the...
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brief pause for a photo op
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looking back to the valley from the tunnel through...
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BETA PHOTO: the approach trail passes through a tunnel
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BETA PHOTO: you'll need to descend some slabs before heading u...
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Dow past the crux on P1
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Dow coming up P2
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BETA PHOTO: Dow about to exit the wide chimney on P3
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great views from the P3 belay
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BETA PHOTO: the 3rd class slab followed by a 5th class bushwha...
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good rock on P5
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looking over to Resolution Arete
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| Comments on Pink Tornado Left |
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By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 10, 2009
| My description describes pitch 1 as going up the right side of the initial white triangular slab at 5.9+. This was how pitch 1 was listed in the Handren guide. Referring to Urioste's Red Book, it can be seen that the original pitch 1 ascended the left side of the white slab at 5.7.
I found the right side very enjoyable and worthwhile; I have not climbed the left side... |
By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Apr 10, 2009
| The left side is not particularly enjoyable. |
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 20, 2010
rating: 5.9
| On pitch 1, if you step left a short distance up (near a bush out of the chimney) there is a laser cut finger crack in a corner - best pitch on the route. Rest was OK to Sherwood forest. We continued on to the upper wall as that was our goal so might have not been paying much attention or savoring this route as much as we should have. |
By harihari
From: VANCOUVER
Nov 10, 2010
| Thanks to whoever wrote me (larry?). the Brock guide has P.T. left in totally the wrong spot. Should you end up on the left side of the flake, you can do the following:
I had doubles from .3 to #2 camalot and 1 #3 and #4. i woudl want doubles to #4, since the climbig is easy but can be somewhat runout with a skeletal rack and there are some very long pitches.
P1. Go up to the climbers'-left base of the big pyramid flake. There is a grayish sorta water groove, then a small tree, leading into a chimney which faces left. Climb this (5.9?) past one ledge to a second ledge which has some trees for an anchor.
P2. Go into the chimney for maybe 20-30 feet, then go up an easy hand crack that goes up and slightly left of the chimney. This will lead you up and rightward to the top of the formation to a big flat spot with trees for pro. 5.7 or 5.8
P3. Go up and slightly right along more cracks (some munge near the start) and eventually you will get to the base of a nice handcrack that goes through a dark section. 5.9
P4 Go up the handcrack, clip the station, fire the roof (easy) and go to a bolted stance.
then you basically go straight up the left-facing corner. After another pitch or two, the thing appears to turn into an enormous terrifying maw of a chimney...but sweat not, stemming the otuside will lead you to excellent pro, cool positions and not too many difficulties. |
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