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Start on south side of Dino Rock - you will see 5 bolts going up and left. We pulled on the first bolt and pre-clipped the second bolt. Some of the rock for the feet at the start is mega choss that will never clean up. This section is 11+. Mount the large prow aka Big Mindy via weirdness at the fourth bolt and then traverse out of sight around the corner for four more bolts (5.7) to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch two is five bolts to a two bolt anchor (.11b). Yard off the anchor and pre-clip the first bolt. From the top, lower back to middle anchor and rap from there with a 60m rope.
Pitch two is four stars. Pitch one maybe gets two - maybe.
Pitch 1 - 8 bolts. Pitch 2 - 5 bolts. 2 bolt anchors for both pitches. No trad gear needed.
Mia next to the monster hold I ripped off.
Jun 6, 2010
FA should be: Paul Glover, Matt Samet. I just seconded and helped whang in bolts, etc.
The second pitch is the funnest jug haul in the Flatirons, in a spectacular position, and the first pitch has just a few sandy footholds, but otherwise cool moves on unique features. You can rap back to your packs from the middle anchors for sure, and if you have a 70m, can also do so from the top anchors, atop pitch two. Kudos to Paul on his eye for this line!
Also, many thanks to OSMP, the Flatirons Climbing Council, and the Access Fund for keeping new-routing alive and well in the Flatirons.
From: Fort Collins
Sep 14, 2011
The first pitch is crap! Breaking stuff off left and right. That being said, it's worth it to get to the second pitch! Great, steep climbing on jugs...still pumpy, though!
|By Phil Lauffen|
From: The Bubble
Apr 8, 2012
Cleaned up the first pitch today. Ripped two holds off, both resulting in falls.
2nd pitch is sweet though!
From: Denver, CO
May 13, 2013
Dropped a line from the top anchor yesterday. Pitch 2 was awesome. The line from the big ramp directly below the intermediate anchor goes at 5.10 with a few nice moves on very crumbly rock. Would be a nice line if a solid bolt was placed there, but I'm not sure if a bolt in that stuff would hold a fall.