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Pink Laurel 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ted & Ann Church, 1955
Page Views: 3,419
Submitted By: JSH on Jun 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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Doug Morse leading P1.

Description 

Pink Laurel is a sunny and warm route, great for winter days. It uses quite a variety of climbing techniques to ascend the obvious left-facing orange and pink corner, just to the right of Classic.

P1: Start at Classic, and climb up the offwidthy ramp on the right to a stance at the bottom of a chimney. Find a way up (crux) into the main corner system, then follow the corner up through the steep but relatively easy chimney sections above, to the big ledge. 5.9, 80 ft.

You can build a belay in the corner, or traverse ~25 feet left to belay at the shared bolt anchor.

P2: Climb through a long flake system located on the right, up the corner, past another roof to an arete, and head to the trees.

P1 and P2 can be run together, but consider that the crux is quite low; between noise from the road and a set-back belay, it's unlikely that you'll hear your follower if s/he has trouble.

Descend to the left via the Uberfall Descent.


Protection 

Standard rack. Gear is pumpy but plentiful through the crux, and you won't need anything large.



Photos of Pink Laurel Slideshow Add Photo
In the final alcove on P1 of Pink Laurel
In the final alcove on P1 of Pink Laurel
Dave Morgan in the crux.
Dave Morgan in the crux.
The second pitch of Pink Laurel.
The second pitch of Pink Laurel.
Gear placing on Pink Laurel. Taken from in front of Jackie.
BETA PHOTO: Gear placing on Pink Laurel. Taken from in front o...
Doug Morse at the beginning of the difficulties.
Doug Morse at the beginning of the difficulties.
Working his way out of the initial alcove.
Working his way out of the initial alcove.
TJ working his way up
TJ working his way up
Comments on Pink Laurel Add Comment
Show which comments
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 2, 2007

(beta alert >>) hand jam(s) help a lot.

By Risi
Oct 15, 2007

Don't miss the nice and steep second pitch! There is only one 5.9 move on a short traverse to the left below the second roof. Long slings or double ropes are helpful.

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Apr 21, 2008

damn, my book said 5.8
seemed pretty hard for a 5.8
safe and fun route

By slim
Administrator
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

another route that, if you are new to the gunks, will make you say "are you sure about this?", but it all comes together, brilliantly. you can't swing a dead cat without hitting a classic route around here.

By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 1, 2009

I don't quite agree that this is a classic - at least at the moment, it is rather mossy and slimy. Maybe in a drier year it's a classic.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 2, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

yeah, the rock is pretty smooth and slippery. if it is wet or mossy, i can imagine it being a bit un-nerving. you gotta admit though, for 5.8 it packs a bit of "are you sure this is gonna go at 5.8?.".

By David Stowe
Jul 16, 2009

Packs quite a punch for a 5.8 because it is a solid 5.9.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 14, 2009

The crux is very polished. It makes the moves out of the chimney that much harder. ONce you are through the crux, the climbing eases off significantly. I am not a fan of the polished rock...

I just did it again today (9/22/12) and I still hate this climb. I am just not a fan. I don't think I stem enough and I just burl through the moves. I did enjoy P2(v).

By John Peterson
Sep 14, 2009

I think humidity adds a full grade to this climb. It seemed easy on a cool, crisp day and nearly impossible during summer heat.