|517 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 45'|
|Consensus: ||M7 [details]|
|FA: ||Rob Griz, Brad Grohusky|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Rob Griz on Jan 15, 2011|
Pink Funhouse, the mixed line to the left of the i...
Yet another great addition to the Vail area. Short and sweet, yet it'll keep you reachin' a little higher. The first bolt is intentionally set high (to stick clip), yet if you know the holds, it can be (has been) led ground-up (just don't blow it). The crux is between the first 2 bolts, and the climbing has excellent moves in a natural seam that runs to the top of the cliff. You gotta try it, great Stein pulls, cams, and shallow pods.
The 4 spacious bolts are exactly where you need them. There are anchors on top for an easy escape. Enjoy! A 5th bolt was added on 11/11 between the upper two bolts, due to ledge-fall potential. The upper crack seam is well dug out, careful camming and thin footwork will help you reach the anchor.
Looking at the Staircase, look left. The route runs up the beautiful, steep face, beginning in right-facing corner/open book that is visible 10m left of the ice. For kicks and clarity, working left of the Staircase you have Stemcicle (aka Boxed in), a Grade 3 ice flow with a static rope top anchor, the Log Jammin' (mixed trad), then the Pink Funhouse. Stick-clip the first bolt (borrow my clipstick in the red litter sled, bring a squid/tape). Lower off the pair of bomber top anchors.
Moving through the crux on "Pink Fun House".
The second clip counts.
BETA PHOTO: Close to the chains.
BETA - Torque the glory hol...
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