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Pink Fink
V7 YDS 7A+ Font PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 14 votes
Type: | Boulder, Alpine, 15 ft (5 m) |
FA: | Bennett Scott? Greg Loomis? |
Page Views: | 4,200 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jul 24, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Most of these boulders are within the Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the US.
Details
Most boulders are located within the Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the USFS. Climbers should be on their best behavior, practice Leave No Trace. Please abide by these requirements: it can take vegetation decades to recover from damage. Place crash pads judiciously, & keep brushing to a minimum. Before adding new lines, considered the damage that may be caused by additional foot traffic, pads, etc.
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Description
The Mt. Evans boulders are blessed with some unusual features, including the occasional dike of beautiful pink quartzite. This quartzite looks very featured, and generally lines that climb this rock look pretty trivial from the ground. Beware: this stuff has marble texture, and after a few hours sloping your way up the highly textured granite, these holds will feel awfully slick.
Stand start directly below a prominent v-notch in the lip, on a pair of opposing gastons (some may use a cheater block to reach these). Its possible to avoid the cheater block by using a rounded pink hold for the RH about 12 below the sharp gaston. Move straight up on heinous, glassy slopers. The feet are extremely polished and it requires a lot of body tension to keep the feet on. Holds get much bigger near the top.
Stand start directly below a prominent v-notch in the lip, on a pair of opposing gastons (some may use a cheater block to reach these). Its possible to avoid the cheater block by using a rounded pink hold for the RH about 12 below the sharp gaston. Move straight up on heinous, glassy slopers. The feet are extremely polished and it requires a lot of body tension to keep the feet on. Holds get much bigger near the top.
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