A great, somewhat burly, two-pitch line. Once you find the start of Hotline and the aid start of Fatal Mistake (fairly easy), scramble up and right around the right side of the Worst Error Pinnacle. This requires some fourth class scrambling up ledges and loose stuff. There is a large chimney between the main wall and the Pinnacle; Pink Dream starts just left of this and is somewhat hidden from view.
P1: Climb a long right facing corner system to a huge ledge. 5.9+, 150'.
P2: Climb the beautiful splitter crack to a burly corner. Belay at three old bolts. 5.10a, 120'.
Descending is somewhat difficult and required us traversing around a ledge into the corner, while on rappel, to a rappel station on a tree.
Single set from 0.3 Camalot to 0.75 Camalot. Doubles in #1-#3.5 (#4 C4 OK) Camalots. Extra #3 for the timid. Wires. Two ropes for rapping.
Sep 26, 2008
I climbed this last September ('07). The route was burlier than expected but fun. Save some large pro for the end of the second pitch.
The first rap station could use resetting. The second should be avoided.
On the first rap my partner went down then traversed a ways into the gully to the station (tree with slings). This put him in the middle of a wasps nest where he was stung numerous times. To avoid this, it may be possible to rap straight down to other trees in the gully and set up a second rap there. Not sure if the ropes will reach so be sure to knot your rope.
Jan 6, 2010
When Donald Reid says, "a #11 hex is useful" in his topo for a down canyon climb. Then by all means, bring a large cam! Having a #5 friend at the top really made me feel good. Given that the second pitch has a definite offwidth section to it.
If you are going to climb this one and have a bolt kit, please update this rappel anchor.
|By Lou Hibbard|
From: Eagan, MN
Oct 29, 2011
I had trouble getting good gear on P2. I kicked out that #11 hex as I led by - looking at a long fall onto a ledge. Onsight or get hurt for me on this one. Pitch 1 is the more classic pitch.
|By Bryan G|
From: San Jose
Oct 2, 2012
You can rappel straight back down to the base from the top with two 70m ropes. Even with two 60m's you should still be able to make it but you might have to swing over to the right a bit where the ground is higher. The climb is actually only about 220ft long, although it feels much taller than that.
Both pitches are excellent.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Oct 22, 2012
The anchor on top of P2 has been replaced. Bomber ASCA hardware. Bryan has the best beta. Two 70m ropes allow for a simple rap straight back to the base. As he said you would need to swing right, into the trees/chimney to get down with two 60m ropes.
I think the key for the 2nd pitch is to have micro cams. There are small pin scars and a Green and Purple C3 would be nice to have.
I placed a #4 but it was not that great given the crazy geometry of the crack.
Super fun climb! Very steep for 10a... Make sure to take a lap on Fatal Mistake when you go up there!
|By erik rieger|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2013
Both pitches are excellent. Easy two-rope rap.