Pinhead  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  FA: Fred Beckey (5.7 A2) 4-73, FFA: Dave Bruckman, Todd Gordon, Mari Gingery, Scott Loomis, Mike Fogarty Season:  Summer-Fall Submitted By:  john durr on Sep 20, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Pinhead climbs the thin crack on the left through ...

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Description 

A stellar one pitch thin seam on the northwest face of Sorcerer. Purity of line, sustained and technical, beautiful rock with very fine moves make this a single pitch classic on a cliff full of multi-pitch classics. A challenging lead.

Climb a thin crack up to a roof, pass the roof (crux), and continue with sustained 5.10+ to a fixed copper head. Sustained 5.10a (R) stemming past a 3-4" flared groove with a bush. Continue up 2-3" grooves and stems to a second roof sustained 5.10a. Pass roof and move left and up ramp/dihedral with nice finger cracks until the ramp pinches off. Drop down and left to the bolted anchor.

Location 

Just down from the Sorcerer / Charlatan Notch on the northwest face of Sorcerer. This route is easily approached by rappelling down Spooky or on the descent from other routes on the Sorcerer. Afternoon sun.

Protection 

2-3 sets of DMM offset brass stoppers (#2-4 most useful), set of stoppers, 2 sets Metolius Master Cams or equivalent (#00-2 most useful), one each cams to 3", a Yates Screamer to clip the fixed copper head recommended. The route ends at the main bolted rappel anchor for the Sorcerer's normal descent.