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The Sorcerer
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Pinhead 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Fred Beckey (5.7 A2) 4-73, FFA: Dave Bruckman, Todd Gordon, Mari Gingery, Scott Loomis, Mike Fogarty
Season: Summer-Fall
Page Views: 1,778
Submitted By: john durr on Sep 20, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Pinhead climbs the thin crack on the left through ...

Description 

A stellar one pitch thin seam on the northwest face of Sorcerer. Purity of line, sustained and technical, beautiful rock with very fine moves make this a single pitch classic on a cliff full of multi-pitch classics. A challenging lead.

Climb a thin crack up to a roof, pass the roof (crux), and continue with sustained 5.10+ to a fixed copper head. Sustained 5.10a (R) stemming past a 3-4" flared groove with a bush. Continue up 2-3" grooves and stems to a second roof sustained 5.10a. Pass roof and move left and up ramp/dihedral with nice finger cracks until the ramp pinches off. Drop down and left to the bolted anchor.


Location 

Just down from the Sorcerer / Charlatan Notch on the northwest face of Sorcerer. This route is easily approached by rappelling down Spooky or on the descent from other routes on the Sorcerer. Afternoon sun.


Protection 

A good assortment of small offset brass stoppers, set of stoppers, extra tcu's, one each cams to 3", a Yates Screamer to clip the fixed copper head might help who knows?

The route ends at the main bolted rappel anchor for the Sorcerer's north ridge normal descent towards the notch at Spooky.



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By Murf
Sep 20, 2010

John - 2-3 sets of DMM brass and two full sets of Master Cams? That's a lot of gear for a route that doesn't take more than a handful of good pieces.

By Leif
Oct 17, 2011

Scary lead. Makes it all that more rewarding. Really good.