|1,036 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10d [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Fred Beckey (5.7 A2) 4-73, FFA: Dave Bruckman, Todd Gordon, Mari Gingery, Scott Loomis, Mike Fogarty|
|Submitted By: ||john durr on Sep 20, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: Pinhead climbs the thin crack on the left through ...
A stellar one pitch thin seam on the northwest face of Sorcerer. Purity of line, sustained and technical, beautiful rock with very fine moves make this a single pitch classic on a cliff full of multi-pitch classics. A challenging lead.
Climb a thin crack up to a roof, pass the roof (crux), and continue with sustained 5.10+ to a fixed copper head. Sustained 5.10a (R) stemming past a 3-4" flared groove with a bush. Continue up 2-3" grooves and stems to a second roof sustained 5.10a. Pass roof and move left and up ramp/dihedral with nice finger cracks until the ramp pinches off. Drop down and left to the bolted anchor.
Just down from the Sorcerer / Charlatan Notch on the northwest face of Sorcerer. This route is easily approached by rappelling down Spooky or on the descent from other routes on the Sorcerer. Afternoon sun.
2-3 sets of DMM offset brass stoppers (#2-4 most useful), set of stoppers, 2 sets Metolius Master Cams or equivalent (#00-2 most useful), one each cams to 3", a Yates Screamer to clip the fixed copper head recommended. The route ends at the main bolted rappel anchor for the Sorcerer's normal descent.
Sep 20, 2010
John - 2-3 sets of DMM brass and two full sets of Master Cams? That's a lot of gear for a route that doesn't take more than a handful of good pieces.
Oct 17, 2011
Scary lead. Makes it all that more rewarding. Really good.