Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: FA: Fred Beckey (5.7 A2) 4-73, FFA: Dave Bruckman, Todd Gordon, Mari Gingery, Scott Loomis, Mike Fogarty
Page Views: 5,053 total · 31/month
Shared By: john durr on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

A stellar one pitch thin seam on the northwest face of Sorcerer. Purity of line, sustained and technical, beautiful rock with very fine moves make this a single pitch classic on a cliff full of multi-pitch classics. A challenging lead.

Climb a thin crack up to a roof, pass the roof (crux), and continue with sustained 5.10+ to a fixed copper head. Sustained 5.10a (R) stemming past a 3-4" flared groove with a bush. Continue up 2-3" grooves and stems to a second roof sustained 5.10a. Pass roof and move left and up ramp/dihedral with nice finger cracks until the ramp pinches off. Drop down and left to the bolted anchor.

Location Suggest change

Just down from the Sorcerer / Charlatan Notch on the northwest face of Sorcerer. This route is easily approached by rappelling down Spooky or on the descent from other routes on the Sorcerer. Afternoon sun.

Protection Suggest change

A good assortment of small offset brass stoppers, set of stoppers, extra tcu's, one each cams to 3", a Yates Screamer to clip the fixed copper head might help who knows?

The route ends at the main bolted rappel anchor for the Sorcerer's north ridge normal descent towards the notch at Spooky.

Photos

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