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(3) Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anastasia TR 
Arcturus TR 
Classic Crack T 
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 
Critical Mass S 
Hard Body S 
Hit the Highway T,S 
Kashmir S 
Mr. Bentley TR 
No Friction T 
On the Loose TR 
Physical Graffiti T 
Pinhead S 
Red Eye S 
Sheer Energy T,S 
Sheer Stress T 
Shoot From the Hip T,S 
Thai Stick S 
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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: S. Mrazek, C. Buzzard 1991
Page Views: 1,780
Submitted By: Philip Scoles on Oct 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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2nd pitch of sheer stress anchor


Climb the upper headwall of sheer stress. Crimps and hard lockoff's take you to the top.


Above sheer stress.


gear for sheer stress, bolts.

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By phillip
Jun 23, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I just revisited this route and I can say that it is certainly one of the top ten Portland-area sport climbs. Maybe state?! Good holds on beautiful, solid, grippy rock- what more could you ask for?
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The third bolt seemed oddly hard to clip for a shorter person (and I'm 5'9"). Not a big deal, but your waaaay past your last clip. Agree with the above; for the grade, there is no better route in the PDX area. Super clean falls, so it's a good one to push your limit!
By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
May 25, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This route is rad. Without a doubt the best thing I have climbed around Portland. Great movement and super aesthetic rock, this thing would be a classic anywhere. Seemed to be on the upper end of 5.11d and harder than Kashmir.
By another Chad
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Yep, great route. Technical, exposed and captivating. It took a while to figure out an efficient way to move between the 3rd and 4th bolts but once unlocked the route felt easier than Kashmir.

By phillip
Apr 2, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Thanks to whomever for the solid rebolting work!
By Ryan Ried
From: Portland OR
May 20, 2014

This thing is amazing! Best climb I've been on in Portland for sure. Does anyone know if you can lower to the ground with a 70m?
By another Chad
May 21, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Ryan, you can lower to the ground with a 60m rope from the top of Pinhead and have a couple feet to spare. That is if you are getting up there via Sheer Stress. Approaching from Sheer Energy or anything else probably wouldn't work with a 60m.

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