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Limp Dick
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Dick Tracy T 
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Fallatio T 
Five Tree T 
Limp Dick T 
Pinhead S 

Pinhead 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Tom Gilje & Scott Erler, 1987
Page Views: 342
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 31, 2006

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Description 

This atypical route is found on the bulging west face of the formation, which has a large pine tree growing near the base.

Begin by climbing the tree until able to transition onto the rock; a sling around the tree provides some protection before the first bolt. Once established on the face traverse slightly left and then launch up thin, technical moves to a somewhat pumping finish on larger holds.

Overall a very good route with a scenic location, excellent rock and intriguing movement that's a welcome diversion from the slab climbing so common to the area.


Protection 

4 bolts (5/16"), anchors



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