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There Goes the Neighborhood 
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Trailer Park Logic 
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Up Valley Goes Downtown 
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YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 466
Submitted By: montay on Oct 13, 2001
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Pin Head is one of the better 5.10s at Shelf. Goo...


To locate this route, from the far south end of the Gym (where it meets the east end of Spiney Ridge), walk north approximately 200 to 300 yards. Notice that in this area there are some very tall walls of beautiful rock. Keep an eye out for a smaller, overhanging section of rock with a deep undercut beneath it. If you see a ton of brown guano in this cave, you have located the Ejection Wall. Hike upward and to the left onto a nice big belay boulder. Pinhead is the 3rd line on the right, with kind of a pillar start sporting 3 bolts.

Crank hard and fast past the thuggish start. Pedal those great feet with just about nothing for hands on steep bulgy rock up to a sweet jug. Fun, casual climbing on excellent black rock, laced with pockets and edges will lead you up to a nice ledge with some more sweet pockets. Enjoy the awkward and balnancy move up to the next bolt. Above lies easier climbing past one more bolt, and an easy runout to the anchors. The last section is very easy, but be careful as there is evidence of holds that have broken off in this area.

Great route on great rock.


7 bolts and anchor.

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