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Pinhead 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FFA: Charlie Fowler, Franci Stagi
Page Views: 1,623
Submitted By: J. Hickok on Jul 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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just leaving the ground on pinhead

Description 

Great lead for the 5.10 climber that will challenge you to stay on top of gear placements through the bottom. It is located right of Astro Lad and is the next route immediately right of Potash Sanction. Make your way up a using an array of cracks and features. Sometime you'll probably want to angle left to the dihedral. Tricky moves set you up for a very short chimney session and then the reach out and around from the chimney to clip the anchors. To bypass the chimney move right and then left again above/around it until you can stand on the ledge in the chimney and reach anchors. There is a second pitch, but it hardly seems worth the effort. Anybody comment? As always on Wall Street use your own hardware while your crew topropes this.

Protection 

All gear, no bolts or pitons. Bring a diverse rack, but you probably won't need more than one of anything.


Photos of Pinhead Slideshow Add Photo
Jason Rite pondering the best way to get into the chimney up high.
Jason Rite pondering the best way to get into the ...
Pinhead
Pinhead

Comments on Pinhead Add Comment
Show which comments
By rapchopper
Nov 10, 2009

This is totally incorrect information as far as the anchors on Potash. The are replaced regularly and are not webbing on most. We TR these anchors everyday. Please use draws if you are going to have large parties on the same rope. By the way there is no mystery at all that this is Pinhead....
By erik rieger
From: Gold Hill, CO
May 6, 2012

this route is pretty good, you can climb to the upper anchors in the right facing corner and still lower with a 60. there's a bolt where it gets thin up high.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I really enjoyed this route- it had good feet! It climbed a lot like a non-desert route which was a fun change of pace. The difficulty seemed to stay pretty moderate with one or two more strenuous moves at the top.
By J. Hickok
Apr 5, 2014

rapchopper: I am confused by your comments. Are you referring to another comment that was deleted or to the route description? I haven't been at Wall Street for awhile, but I imagine this route has steel rings on either chains or webbing, and of course should not be used for toproping by large parties. Place your own draws.