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Pineapple Buttress
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Pineapple Thunderpussy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Kanzler, Doug Randall, 1977
Season: Spring, Summer, and Fall
Page Views: 3,680
Submitted By: Sarge on May 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Almost to the pitch 1 belay.

Description 

This is an awesome climb! The crux is 2/3 the way through the first pitch. An airy roof traverse that seems scarier than it is. The rock is suprisingly awesome. This route is a true test of your mini roof climbing abilities.
P1.Climb the dihedral through the pineapple colored rock to the first roof. Veer left around the roof and continue 15 up a beautiful vertical crack on the north face until you acquire a small ledge (the guidebook says "placing good belay anchors here requires thought" is a very astute notation).
P2. Climb straight above ledge until possible to traverse right to arete.

Location 

This route is located on the northwest corner of Pineapple Buttress.
To find start scramble up gully north of buttress until above first short tier.
Descent: Walk to back of buttress and descend the left side.

Protection 

Typical trad rack. No fixed gear and you make your own anchors.


Photos of Pineapple Thunderpussy Slideshow Add Photo
The corner on the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The corner on the first pitch.
P1
P1
Top of pitch 2 on Pineapple
Top of pitch 2 on Pineapple

Comments on Pineapple Thunderpussy Add Comment
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By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Apr 25, 2011

i recall placing a crucial purple tcu on the second pitch, which made things exciting.
By Bud Martin
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 19, 2011

Great route, Canyon classic. Straightforward 5.9 climbing that actually protects well.
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 13, 2012

Fun! Got a few perfect handjams on the way up. Save a .75 and #1 Camalot for the anchor on top of the first pitch...otherwise expect to be belaying off micro gear and a sorta iffy nut. You do have a BOMBER #3 placement about 6 feet below the anchor station if your anchor were to fail.....
By Nic Lazzareschi
Jul 12, 2012

Should be rated 5.10a/b because this route is harder than Tigger across the canyon. For the first belay, just put an anchor above your position. Crux is below the big roof with the two smaller roofs.
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Aug 18, 2013

One of the best routes at Gallatin!!
By Matt Wenger
Jul 27, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

New rappel hangers and rings about 15-20 feet back from the prow of buttress on the North side. Rappel down to a tree with a rap ring and cord slung around it. This spot could use some rap rings itself. 70m rope doesn't quite get you back to very bottom, requires some easy down-climbing. First pitch is incredible! Definitely save some small gear for belay.
By Seth Kane
From: Bozeman, Montana
Sep 17, 2014

thought the rappel was WAY better then the walk off. A single 60m barely get's you to the tree, and I don't think would make it to the ground from the tree (we had halves and the half way mark was a few feet off the ledge you belay the first pitch on).
By Andrew M Whitmore
Sep 27, 2014

Fantastic route. Grab a 70m rope, a double rack and climb it in one pitch. That is the only way I've done this route since first climbing it in 2004.
As for the rappel, its been in since 2011. It was installed on "Penny's Pineapple" to alleviate the intense climber caused erosion on the walk-off of Pineapple. The chains were donated by T. Kingsbury. I've been meaning to get back and add a station down lower (so much to do).