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Routes in West Ironing Board
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Cave Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crescent T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Crescent Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Dolmen, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Green Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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I Lichen Chimneys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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I Lichen Offwidths T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Marine Life T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pine Tree Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seams Like a Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Smoother T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | J. Erikson, 1976, free solo |
| Page Views: | 813 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 18, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
This is a climb with great movement. Were it a little less sharp or a little cleaner, it would be 3-4 *s. Were it just off the road in Eldo, it would be all of that + crowded.
Start off on an awkward move to get feet up and stable enough to access a jam that started out of reach to the right. You'll likely be barndooring off of some awkward-looking sidepulls to get there, but the rock is so course and sharp that the hands and feet stick like glue.
Toss in that jam and start a series of liebacks and jams up very steep rock, alternating between slots and shallow, left-facing corners in a singular line. You will reach a gravel-covered shelf after 60'. Looking up a right-facing corner and overhang (with massive pockets on the side), you can see a rope anchor that constitutes a belay and rap.
This is a pitch worth finding if you are coming off of the back of the West Ironing Board.
Start off on an awkward move to get feet up and stable enough to access a jam that started out of reach to the right. You'll likely be barndooring off of some awkward-looking sidepulls to get there, but the rock is so course and sharp that the hands and feet stick like glue.
Toss in that jam and start a series of liebacks and jams up very steep rock, alternating between slots and shallow, left-facing corners in a singular line. You will reach a gravel-covered shelf after 60'. Looking up a right-facing corner and overhang (with massive pockets on the side), you can see a rope anchor that constitutes a belay and rap.
This is a pitch worth finding if you are coming off of the back of the West Ironing Board.
Location
This route lies on the West side of the West Ironing Board, just downhill of the section that is steeper and taller from the West. Perhaps this is both best located and accessed from above and can be identified by the rope anchor slung around a boulder in a chimney above the gravely ledge it tops out on. Of some help in finding this is that from the true summit ridge, it is marked by the top of a large pine jutting out though an overhanging chimney.
Go North, down to a ledge, and then back south on that gravely ledge to locate the climb and the anchor, which will now be under an overhang just above your head.
The anchor needs a rapid-link, as it presently sports no hardware.
Go North, down to a ledge, and then back south on that gravely ledge to locate the climb and the anchor, which will now be under an overhang just above your head.
The anchor needs a rapid-link, as it presently sports no hardware.
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