The Pine Tree Dihedral is an easily protected route that is excellent for novice trad leaders. The route follows the inside corner that sits below the teenaged pine tree growing out of the rock near the top of the wall. Climb this route by jamming the crack of the dihedral up to the overhanging block midway up the wall. Proceed to the right of the overhanging block and continue up the dihedral, passing the tree on your left. Duck under the tree branches and follow the inside corner to the top of the wall.
Somehow the crux on this route has been underestimated. The crux to overcome the overhung boulder requires a hang jam (just underneath the boulder), a smearing footwork on the right face, and then a powerful pull-up in order to reach either a not-so-good hold on the left or into a groove (far and bad one) on the right. For a beginner's leading? I'm not sure.
By Tradoholic Sep 8, 2010 rating: 5.54b13IV+11MS 4a
Agreed, mantle move isn't for the beginning leader. Unless you want to sandbag them!
By Tom Lausch From: Madison WI Aug 19, 2012 rating: 5.54b13IV+11MS 4a
Make sure to clip the #1 Bd that someone got stuck in the crack on the right about half way up. Free pro! But good luck getting it out without ruining it. Might as well leave it in my opinion. Great climb though
There is a very nice "hero" variation at the crux (we call it the "cheese danse"). When you are tucked under the big crux roof, instead of manteling to the ledge on the right, reach up on the face above the roof until you find the nice finger ledge with your left hand. The real "hero" looking move is to then match both hands on the little ledge and let go with the feet and just hang in mid air. Do a pull-up on the little ledge and use the little bulge on the edge of the over-hang for your right foot. This is only about a 5.7 move and that mostly for commitment to letting go with everything else. It isn't too hard but it looks really cool!