Pine Tree Crack 5.4
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the grassy crack, but it was fun
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Description A really fun and super moderate trad climb. A good place to practice the techniques you will need on multi-pitch slab climbs on cliffs like Whitehorse, such as rope management and switching over belays.
Pitch 1: Start at a nice perch at the base of the slab on the left. Go up smooth sticky slab then up a natural stair case in the rock (good placements at the top of bulge). Continue up slabs and cracks toward a nice crack above. Climb the crack until it is necessary to break right on the slab and up to the tree belay.
Pitch 2: A short pitch up the slab above the tree to the top. Belay from trees.
What I like to do when I'm teaching multi-pitch climbing and belay techniques is to break the route in to 3 or 4 short pitches to get max experience in changeovers and building trad anchors. There are a bunch of spots to do this.
Location The farthest left route on the slabs at the far left of the cliff. Just to the left of the more popular Clip-a-dee-do-da. Just think left.
Protection Regular rack
Looking down from the top
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| Comments on Pine Tree Crack |
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 7, 2007
rating: 5.4
| I agree with Lee, this is a great route for the beginning trad leader to try out, you can lead the '1st pitch' up to the little ledge, then let them tackle the crack(2nd half of P1) to the tree belay and final run-out pitch(P2). |
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Nov 6, 2012
| I climbed clippity yesterday and notice this crack has been cleaned out. |
By Jon Hollander
3 days ago
| Did this in three pitches this weekend and it was a blast! Building the gear anchor half way up P1 gave me some much needed practice and split up the leading a little more evenly, since the climbing past the big tree is short on distance and pro. I probably didn't pick the greatest place to build the anchor though. I was just left of the 2nd to last bolt before the P1 anchor of clip-a-dee and felt like there may have been some better spots I could have chosen, especially further left where the angle was a bit lower and could have had a more comfortable stance to place gear. |
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