A really fun and super moderate trad climb. A good place to practice the techniques you will need on multi-pitch slab climbs on cliffs like Whitehorse, such as rope management and switching over belays.
Pitch 1: Start at a nice perch at the base of the slab on the left. Go up smooth sticky slab then up a natural stair case in the rock (good placements at the top of bulge). Continue up slabs and cracks toward a nice crack above. Climb the crack until it is necessary to break right on the slab and up to the tree belay.
Pitch 2: A short pitch up the slab above the tree to the top. Belay from trees.
What I like to do when I'm teaching multi-pitch climbing and belay techniques is to break the route in to 3 or 4 short pitches to get max experience in changeovers and building trad anchors. There are a bunch of spots to do this.
The farthest left route on the slabs at the far left of the cliff. Just to the left of the more popular Clip-a-dee-do-da. Just think left.
Looking down from the top
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 7, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
I agree with Lee, this is a great route for the beginning trad leader to try out, you can lead the '1st pitch' up to the little ledge, then let them tackle the crack(2nd half of P1) to the tree belay and final run-out pitch(P2).
From: Hopkinton, MA
Nov 6, 2012
I climbed clippity yesterday and notice this crack has been cleaned out.
|By Jon Hollander|
Jun 17, 2013
Did this in three pitches this weekend and it was a blast! Building the gear anchor half way up P1 gave me some much needed practice and split up the leading a little more evenly, since the climbing past the big tree is short on distance and pro. I probably didn't pick the greatest place to build the anchor though. I was just left of the 2nd to last bolt before the P1 anchor of clip-a-dee and felt like there may have been some better spots I could have chosen, especially further left where the angle was a bit lower and could have had a more comfortable stance to place gear.
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 23, 2013
This has been cleaned recently-ish to GREAT benefit of the route, despite what the front page photo shows. I thought the climbing was fantastic at the grade. Consistently engaging for a 5.4 (kind of like a very low angle Lonesome Dove), with solid placements for both passive and active pro the whole way up, two good (but not great) belay stations, and a great view from the top.
Worthy alternative to Clippety if you can justify bringing the gear up.
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 2, 2013
I learned so much about gear placements and multi-pitching on this route. If you are just getting into trad, or if you want a controlled route to bring a second and expose them to trad multi-pitching, this is the place for you. Turn it into 3 pitches with a gear anchor. The protection (besides the very beginning and very end) is excellent and the climbing is fun. Do this a few times and you will be much better prepared to go do Whitehorse or Cathedral.
|By J Meagher|
Jun 8, 2014
How bad is the runout at the end? Like 20 feet above your last piece or more?
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 8, 2014
depends when you break out of the crack... id say 30ft at most