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Mescalito
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Pine Nuts T 
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Pine Nuts 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Gill, Paul Ross & Todd Swain, 12/98
Page Views: 837
Submitted By: J. Thompson on Apr 14, 2007

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FA. Todd Swain coming over the roof on first pitch...

Description 

Start about 20 ft right of Walker spur, on the same ledge.
Pitch 1:Begin up a heucoed face. You 'll see a bolt in brown varnish about 60 ft up. Link features to this first bolt, and a second bolt will appear shortly. Climb out the roof and up the face above to a 2 bolt anchor on a small ledge.5.10b.
Pitch 2: Continue up the perfect varnished face. Link small cracks and obvious features for 130' to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8.

Descent: rap the route with 2 ropes.

Location 

East face of the Mescalito, between The Walker Spur and When a stranger calls.

Protection 

Nuts and cams to 3"


Photos of Pine Nuts Slideshow Add Photo
The First Ascent.... Chris Gill on the roof section of the first pitch. Photo Paul Ross
The First Ascent.... Chris Gill on the roof sectio...

Comments on Pine Nuts Add Comment
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By Cultivating Mass
Mar 19, 2008

This route has had an 'R' rating at some point in the guidy-books. Not so. Solid pro, both pitches. 1st has some scrambling to get to first placement, nowhere near difficult.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 25, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Fun, featured rock serves up some really enjoyable climbing. The first pitch has a good bit of very friable rock so leaders should climb with caution. The roof looks pretty intimidating from below but turns out to be quite easy. Due to the huge jugs, the roof would be 5.7 at the Gunks.
By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Sep 27, 2013

Was done on a very cold day in December.. Note Todd in his down jacket
By Ben Townsend
Dec 4, 2013

The second pitch is wonderful varnish climbing, and seemed a lot easier than 5.8. Easily reached from When a Stranger Calls, if you don't want to lead the first pitch.