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The First Ascent.... Chris Gill on the roof sectio...
Start about 20 ft right of Walker spur, on the same ledge.
Pitch 1:Begin up a heucoed face. You 'll see a bolt in brown varnish about 60 ft up. Link features to this first bolt, and a second bolt will appear shortly. Climb out the roof and up the face above to a 2 bolt anchor on a small ledge.5.10b.
Pitch 2: Continue up the perfect varnished face. Link small cracks and obvious features for 130' to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8.
Descent: rap the route with 2 ropes.
East face of the Mescalito, between The Walker Spur and When a stranger calls.
Nuts and cams to 3"
FA. Todd Swain coming over the roof on first pitch...
|By Killing In The Name Of|
Mar 19, 2008
This route has had an 'R' rating at some point in the guidy-books. Not so. Solid pro, both pitches. 1st has some scrambling to get to first placement, nowhere near difficult.
|By Rob Fielding|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.10- R
A good route to finish the day off after climbing some of the higher quality routes on Mescalito such as it's neighbor the walker spur.
I enjoyed leading the 2nd pitch and thought it was PG13/R rated, at some points I was 20 feet past small gear. It can be dependent on which line you take since the whole entire wall is plates/edges.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 25, 2012
rating: 5.9- PG13
Fun, featured rock serves up some really enjoyable climbing. The first pitch has a good bit of very friable rock so leaders should climb with caution. The roof looks pretty intimidating from below but turns out to be quite easy. Due to the huge jugs, the roof would be 5.7 at the Gunks.