Mostly one pitch routes on a south facing cliff. This wall gets almost as much sun as the Dylan Wall. Many good routes exist in a short span, starting on the left with "Lite Not Solid" and "Rabid Muslim". There are a couple routes left of those, a hundred or so yards away, near the prow of the buttress, facing the road. There are also several modern bolted lines up aretes between the cracks.Several interesting camping opertunities lie along the road leading to this crag. One in particular, that lies next to a heinous looking overhanging off-width crack.
Two miles north of the bridge is a large "Y" shaped canyon on the right hand side of Buckhorn Wash Road. There is a primitive campsite here, and a four-wheel drive road that winds into the canyon. If just going for the day, it would be best to walk from this point (Don't forget to close the ricketty gate behind you). Hike less than a mile following the right side of the "Y" and look immediately left for the dihedrals of "Burgerdier General" and "Once is Enough" near the prow. A little further is right-facing dihedral with a sharply cut right leaning overhang halfway up (Rabid Muslim).From here it is a 5-minute hike up the talus.All in all, an easy and enjoyable approach.
This is a right facing dihedral with an obvious roof about 25 feet up, left of Old Bushmills and right of Lite Not Solid. Scramble up large boulder close to the start of Bushmills and belay from block at the base of the climb. Climb 25 ft of good hands to roof. Traverse to lip, pull past lip and enjoy tight hands and off fingers for 60 ft. after 60 feet the dihedral throws a tightening bulge for about ten feet(crux). Once past the bulge keep it together for the varied climbing to the anchor...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Anyone have info on the new two pitch route left on Lite Not Solid? It begins with 4 bolts through the cutler then climbs a ever-widening/ overhanging crack, tight hands to fists to the first set of anchors, draws still hanging,then proceeds through a bolted offwidth pitch above. Is it a project or are the draws left for the community? Looks sweet and sharp.
Louis, I put up that upper offwidth/chimney pitch, I did the entire route as one pitch skipping the hanging belay in the middle of the wall. It seems like it increases the grade of the route by a letter or two and ends on a killer 8" ledge 135 feet from the start. The hanging anchor only had a piece of webbing and a biner on the right anchor, so I left a 2' sling and biners on the left to back it up. Hopefully, I'll put some permanent quicklinks on this hanging belay this weekend, the 2' sling is over a year old. There's another route 40 feet to the right of this one (which I don't know anything about) and then Lite Not Solid further right.
Thanks for the kudos, Tyler. I put up those climbs and another 5.9 on the wall around the boulder to the right. It's a really good climb for someone just getting into crack climbing. That double crack chimney is my personal favorite too, but I've seen a few good climbers struggle on it and tell me it's not their favorite. The funny thing about these cracks is the easier they are, the scarier and more labor intensive they were to clean off loose blocks. The 5.5 took me half a day to clean all the loose rock off of. I also put up some climbs further to the left of Burgerdier General. The first one around the corner is a two-pitch climb you should get on, the first pitch is a .10c that has just about every size of jam on it from fingers to a squeeze chimney. The second pitch is an .11+ thru a roof ending on super tight 2's. To the left of this is a great hand crack in a leaning/ramp corner that's way, way cool, not sure who put this one up, but I imagine it's one of the SLC crew, seemed like .10+, then to the left of that one is a 150' .10b that has a bolt marking the start. Clip that do some sport moves and get into a hand crack and then into this crazy canyoneering style chimney that takes really good gear until the last 60' where it's really wide and bolt protected. Can't wait to get on your route across the canyon this winter! There are also 5 more routes across the creek on the Calf Wall, a 5.9, 5.10-, 5.10, 5.10+, and something that looks like .11 or so.
Darren, or someone that's done it. What grade does your 2 pitch o.w./chimney climb go at and what gear would you recommend? It looks totally amazing, but it's really hard to judge the size and grade from below on that one.
I wasn't a big fan of that leaning ramp/handcrack. For the stout grades at the p.creek I'd call it 5.8 with a 5.9 finish!
The gear I used for the upper part past the 1st set of anchors was a #5 Wild Country and then a #6 Wild Country. After that the #6 was tipped out and a #4 BigBro wouldn't fit. The climb has a four or five bolts to the top above your last #6. I have no idea what the top half would be rated on its own. I never did the route in two pitches, but made it one long rope stretcher of a pitch. I would rate the entire climb led as one pitch as some kind of 5.12. It seemed like .11d or .12a to the 1st set of anchors and more sweet pumpy madness to the top. A 80 meter rope barely reaches from the top anchors to the ground. The day I redpointed it, I got to the Swell and realized that I forgot my rope! I drove back to Huntington and borrowed two ropes from MacLayne Potter. I led it on a big beefy 10.5mm. Great day!
Sorry you didn't like the leaning crack. I must have been psyched to get on a new climb that day.